How to kayak from outside the breakers to the beach
by Eric Soares and John Lull
Choice #2: Ride the lip of a big, steep wave as Misha Dynnikov is doing at La Push, Washington (photo by Michael Powers)
“Ah thought Ah’s goin’ t’ DIEEEE!” Georgia girl Bonnie Brill loves to tell the tale of how she was hit by a sucker wave at Maverick’s in Half Moon Bay, was turned over, under, sideways and down, dragged across the reef and deposited into calm water. Not only did she live, but she received nary a scratch on her person or boat. What a lucky gal she is. But she could have been down on her luck that day and faced a different outcome. In today’s post, we will discuss how to safely get in to shore from outside the sets.
In a previous post, we discussed how to safely get from the beach, through the breakers, and out to sea (see https://tsunamirangers.com/2011/06/20/entering-the-surf-zone/). Everything written there about scouting, swimming in surf to acclimate, and practicing in the soup applies here. Now let’s talk about how to come in with the waves.
Before you make any move to exit the sea and return to shore, point your bow out to sea, so you can quickly paddle out past the breakers should an extra-large set show up. That way you won’t get caught from behind by a sucker wave and suffer a calamity. From this position, spend some time to determine how big and steep waves are and how often they arrive. Then make a plan, based upon these choices.
Choice #1
Assuming it’s just you coming in (and not a pod of laden kayaks—a topic for a future post), wait for a big window (that is, a long duration before another big set comes in), turn shoreward and follow the last wave of a big set into shore before the next wave set arrives. This involves paddling hard all the way to shore and requires the least skill.
Choice #1: Paddle like crazy to shore before the wave breaks on you
This is a viable option only if there are very long windows between wave sets. You cannot out-run a big, fast-moving wave and could get caught right in the impact zone. If you plan on paddling in areas where you have to land in surf, it’s best to learn how to handle surf and pick one of the choices outlined below.
Choice #2
If the waves are consistently very big or steeply plunging, and there is not enough of a window to follow a set as in the first choice, then turn and catch a ride on the lip of the last wave of a medium-sized set. Do not drop down into the face, but let the momentum of the near-breaking wave carry you toward shore. Just as it breaks, back-paddle off the lip, let it break in front of you, then paddle forward, staying on top of the whitewater in to shore before a new set catches up with you. It takes considerable skill, gained through practice, to pull this choice off, but it definitely works if you time it well. The trick is to stay right on top of the wave, allowing it to carry you forward without taking the drop down the wave face. (See the photo at the top of this essay for the proper position on the lip).
Choice #3
Wait for the last wave of a moderately big and shapely set, then surf the wave all the way to the beach. This is the most efficient and fun way to get to shore assuming the waves look reasonable to ride (not overly steep or dumping). Set up just outside the area where the waves are steepening, look over your shoulder and pick the wave that looks best to you; usually the last wave of a set, big enough to carry you right through the surf zone and well up on the beach. Then paddle forward, allowing the wave to pick up your stern and start the kayak moving down the face. You want to be almost perpendicular to the wave, with only the slightest angle to avoid pitch-poling. If you take too much angle in a sea kayak, the momentum will push you sideways to the wave. Maintain your trajectory with a stern rudder stroke and lean back as the wave breaks to help keep the bow clear. Then continue to hold your course with a stern rudder through the soup zone. If you do it right, you’ll ride bow-first right up onto the beach. Quickly exit the kayak to one side, lifting both legs out at the same time. Never straddle the kayak!
Choice #3: Surf a moderate-sized wave into shore (photo by Bob Stender)
Always be prepared for a broach (coming in sideways, that is, parallel with the waves). If you get pushed sideways to the wave, instantly brace into the wave by jamming your paddle into the wave face. You may have to lean your body initially if the wave is powerful, but the most important thing is to tilt the kayak into the wave so the hull planes as the wave pushes the kayak across the water toward shore (that is, present your hull to the shore so your body is protected from hitting anything down wave). Relax, ride along sideways, and maintain the boat lean right up onto the sand. Then leap out on the seaward side (to prevent having your boat slam into your legs), grab your boat and run it up above the surf line.
When broaching, lean toward the wave, not away from it as shown here (photo by Bob Stender)If you don’t lean into the wave while broaching, you will capsize down wave (photo by Bob Stender)
You may actually choose to ‘surf and broach’ on purpose if in a long sea kayak. Catch the wave, angling to your chosen side, surf it until it breaks, quickly lean into the wave and broach in the rest of the way.
Those are your three choices. Some instructors advocate facing out to sea as you backpaddle or surf backwards into shore, so you can see if big waves are coming and can paddle over a wave if need be. In small surf, this works okay but is not needed. In bigger surf the “go in backwards” method is too slow and awkward, and invites out-of-control back surfing, possibly resulting in collision with something or someone behind you. We don’t recommend it.
Go out and practice all three methods of exiting the surf zone, especially surfing. You may find surfing so fun that you get addicted to it. Click on this Sea KayakerMagazine link to see ace paddler Gregg Berman surfing in almost to shore in a sea kayak: http://www.seakayakermag.com/2011/shbreak.htm.
Please ask questions about coming in through surf and offer your suggestions on the best way to do it. And share your “caught from behind” stories. Just press on the comments button below and go for it. John Lull and I will respond to questions and comments. G-e-r-o-n-i-m-o!
What should you do when, and I’m not saying this has happened to me (cough cough), you start to surf down from the top of the wave with little semblance of control and realise there’s a big bloody rock directly in front that is unavoidable. I.e. You are nose down, just speeding down from the top of the face, pointy end about to jam into craggy rock with 190 billion litres of surging water breaking behind you? I ask because my technique seemed to hurt a little too much….. FP
Good question Fat Paddler! If you’ve already taken the drop and there’s no way you can steer around the rock, you’ll have only a split second to react. I’d immediately tilt my boat into the wave (try to get into a broach if possible) and hope that the wave washes me up and over the rock, hull first. At worst you’ll hit the rock with your hull instead of your bow or your body.
Of course if you’re talking about a rock that was exposed above the waterline, then your first mistake was not scoping the area well enough before surfing in. A really good argument for using option #2, riding the TOP of the wave without dropping down the face, is when you have to land in a surf zone where rocks are present, or think rocks are present. Up on top of the wave, you’ll be able to ride over and clear of the rocks.
One trick I’ve used successfully with a planing hull on giant breaking waves (requires precise timing) is to wait until the wave is about to break, then take the drop, shoot way out in front, then let the wave break on the stern and/or for the foam pile to catch up to you and brace into it. Otherwise, my fave move is to ride atop the last wave of a big set, back off before it breaks, surf the next (and smaller wave) through the big wave impact zone, back off before IT breaks, immediately paddle through the smaller wave impact zone. After that, all you’ll have to deal with is foam piles of various sizes… easy to brace into, and jack yourself up on with forward and reverse sweeps.
So Paul, you’re saying you like to do a Choice 3-2-1. Well, I’ll tell you, IT WORKS FOR ME! I’ve done the exact same thing (surf, lip, paddle like hell) on many occasions. Thanks for bringing up that one can do combo moves as needed to get in. It’s sort of like jujitsu. We showed three techniques, and a good jujitsuka will combine them for maximum effect in a real situation.
John and I thought about giving more detailed suggestions and trying to discuss all options, but John pointed out that that would use 10,000+ words instead of the 1,000 we were aiming for. So that got axed.
a bit of a technique to get out of a broach – if necessary; eg: you’re stuck in a broach, riding toward shore, and closing in on wiping out a bunch of people playing in the surf, or a surfer dude heading out, etc.:
– intentionally roll downstream (towards shore) and stay upside down waiting for the wave to pass, then roll up and paddle away from obstruction. Takes a bit of practice – as it’s a bit unnerving to ‘intentionally’ windowshade. It happens very fast.
Andy
So, Andy, let me get this straight. You’re suggesting that a broacher purposefully windowshade down the wave (as in the series pictures above) and stay upside down to halt momentum should a pod of kids be downwave, correct? WORKS FOR ME!
When we wrote to lean into the wave and not away, it’s so the paddler wouldn’t accidentally windowshade, which is so fun to watch 😉
BTW, a technique I use when broaching to avoid downwave obstacles (e.g., surfer dudes, rocks), is to scull/draw-and-forward-(or back)-paddle while leaning into the wave to subtly sneak away from the obstacle. So, as you still have your hull facing the obstacle, you slowly maneuver up or down the beach while riding the broach. This works only if you have a few seconds before impact. If there were kids below, as in your example, and no time, I’d definitely do an emergency abort and windowshade–anything so I don’t make mincemeat (literally) out of the little guys.
However, if it was a rock downwave, as Fat Paddler was asking about, I’d follow John’s advice in a comment above and hit the sucker full force with my hull (again, assuming I had no time to sneak out of the way). No way would I let myself hit a rock while I’m upside down. Protecting my head and thorax is numero uno for me. I can always get a new boat (and have done so many, many times, unfortunately).
As a last-ditch resort, what Andy suggests might be your only choice, if you find a surfer-dude or other swimmers in your path (I’m pretty sure he wasn’t talking about a rock, since you don’t have to worry about injuring the rock!). But it still doesn’t guarantee you won’t mow down the hapless swimmer/surfer. I’ve windowshaded and eventually rolled back up, only to find myself still broaching along on the wave, so it’s not foolproof.
This really brings up an extremely important point (as Eric said, we only gave the briefest outline). Before jumping on a wave to surf into shore, make certain you aren’t going to plow through a bunch of surfers or kids playing in the soup zone. Pick a clear area to land and leave plenty of room to either side.
Nice article.
I agree with you when you say: “In bigger surf the “go in backwards” method is too slow and awkward, and invites out-of-control back surfing, possibly resulting in collision with something or someone behind you.”
I find that the best sea kayaks for coming-in thought the surf zone are fish form shaped hulls. I tend to get decent speed to outrun the dump zone and if/when broached they tend to keep the bow pointed slightly forward towards the beach.
The opposite happens to me when using a Swede form kayak.
I tend to be broach much easier and spin around to then suddenly surf backwards. Since the stern tends to have less rocker it pitches me up in the air resulting in a reverse endo. Great fun if predicted and intentional. Very intimidating if not 🙂
Gnarly Dog, there are trade-offs in all design aspects. I don’t mind using a faster Swede-form kayak (see surfski) to run into the beach through breakers, because the speed (and rudder) can give you an edge over the slower fish-form design. Even a fish-form will broach and do a 180 if you let it happen. The key if the surf is big, or if people are watching you from shore, is to tune in and time it, Tsunami Ranger style, and ride in ON TOP of the wave like John Lull taught me. If the surf zone covers a wide area, chances are you’re going to have to sprint to make it to the beach unscathed. If the whitewater catches up to you, you need to deal with it. It’s all so much fun, fun, fun!
Eric, great post. I’m with you on the Three Primary Choices and the flexibility to change between them.
It also depends on which boat I’m paddling. Both of my following examples are of course hypothetical, best case outcomes.
I’ve been window shaded; pitch-poled, reverse pitch-poled, tubed, back surfed, Maytagged, rag dolled, stripped out of my boat and all the rest.
I believe it’s also key to spend time outside; and tune into the set patterns, locate where the waves break and identify hazards and obstacles. That will help me determine where and how I’m going to land.
Momentum is also key to maintaining directional control. I either have to equal or exceed the speed of the swell or wave to maintain the illusion that I’m in control.
In a short boat, I’ll work my way in and pick a good wave to surf to shore. Or I’ll transit from Safe Zone to Safe Zone until I’m close enough to get pushed in by a foam pile. Tactical paddling.
In my long boat, “Charlie Don’t Surf”. I like to vector in; keep momentum, stay in the green water (when possible), choose a smaller wave and broach parallel to the wave face and foam pile. The broach method usually carries my longboat through the Soup Zone and deposits it firmly on the sand.
Agreed, this is not an option when swimmers and surfers are present. I really wouldn’t want to attempt it when people are around. Kind of like driving a bulldozer through Prairie Dog Town. Not cool.
And don’t kids love kayaks ! They tend to run down to the waters edge to watch the fun, not realising that the surfing boat is going to be a 120kg missile heading their way, usually broadside on.
Kenny mentioned: “Even a fish-form will broach and do a 180 if you let it happen.” Yes, that is for sure, especially sea kayaks or other relatively long kayaks. We didn’t specify, but we’re mostly talking about landing a long boat as opposed to a whitewater or surf kayak, which are different beasts.
Fish form, swede form, shmead form, I’ve never really understood all those terms (just shows my ignorance, I guess) or how they were supposed to effect the performance of a sea kayak, but I do know, for sure, that a longer, relatively straight-tracking kayak will broach in a millisecond if you get slightly off track!
Yes, John, I agree, fish, swede, if it works for me, I don’t care what it looks like. (my ‘daily-stretch’ paddling boat looks like a ‘coke bottle’ (a Warren light craft))
My Romany (and previously owned Explorers) – banana boats to be sure, would get stuck in a broach quite easily (in heavy surf – I could not get out – other than flipping intensionally)
while I haven’t taken my (fairly recent) Tahe Greenland in a heavy surf (it’s carbon and would crush like an eggshell), in a moderate surf – when enveloped in a breaking wave, will broach for a short time before getting ‘slapped’ downstream – where I either need to ride out safely or carve off to the left or right – with the expensive carbon boat I’ll avoid pitch poling as much as possible (frustrating – kind of like – pulling out just before… wait a minute – this is a ‘family show’).
Rainer: excellent advice. Also, anyone who has had to go through surf in a kayak has been rag-dolled, maytagged, etc. (loved the way you expressed that). Thanks for bringing the wipeout factors up. That’s part of the dues that must be paid.
And JohnA: Yeah, kids love to run into the surf and “help.” That is a major safety issue, even if you are in complete control. The few times when that has happened I scream at the top of my lungs: “MOVE!” And then put on a facial expression like I’m a maniac ready to mow them down on purpose. Since kids are smart, they immediately get it that they’re gonna die, and they run like the Dickens back up the beach to safety. After I safely land, I smile and say hi to the kids, so they know that I’m not a total maniac.
So many variations for the same carnage.
Here are my tricks, first build up you’re confidence to the max in order to maximize O2 levels and practice hyperventilation (free diving) breathing, and this will make you invincible and impervious to pain. I tried that ride the crest in Florida once, a few days before hurricane Wilma hit, and got a serious backfire when I ended up in a curl which fit my entire boat and got plucked out of the cockpit when the curtain imploded my skirt. Then I swam for over a half our. It was huge.
I like to deliberately lean away from the foam on big impacts, this allows me to brunt the initial impact under water while being very well tucked in, and then I’ll roll up midway or at the end, whatever feels the best. When the bow digs in, sometimes I lean forward just a bit more, edge like 90 degrees and slam a quick stroke and that may carve you’re way out of there just in time.
Marty Perry
Interesting take on it, Marty. Just goes to show there are more ways to deal with surf and everyone has their favorite. Whatever works is what I say. However, leaning away from the foam is the exact opposite of everything that works for me. The one exception of course, which I think you’re talking about, is to get underwater where you’re ‘protected,’ similar to rolling over when confronted by a large breaker while paddling out, or windowshading on purpose. Otherwise, I’m tilting my boat into the foam, whether it’s in the surf, a tide rip, or a whitewater river. That’s how you stay upright and in control (well, mostly).
Riding the top of a wave only works if you can stay up there. Once you drop down into the curl, or off the back of the wave into the oncoming curl, you’re toast.
I like your idea of powering up your system before taking on a big swell, as a freediver might. I would add that doing tai chi-type breathing while surfing, broaching, etc., greatly increases my power and well-being, and should you take a beating underwater for 30 seconds, at least you’ll be oxygenated!
No, don’t get me started on sucking air in through your teeth while in the foam!
Two stories from me, and both failed on the same principle: timing.
The first was a few years ago, coming out from the beach in a big sit in river style kayak, not a slalom or anything WW but very slow and stable. The waves looked very big, at least in my memory, and I timed wrongly the exit from the beach. The biggest of the set, which I am sure was not a small set, broke exactly inside my kayak. I mean it broke on the skirt imploding it inside the kayak and reaping it from the rims. The kayak halted immediately and immediately was full of water with not skirt, floating just above the surface and the next wave was coming in. As captain and last on board I jumped off ship. Swam to shore with my paddle and then went to recover the kayak that drifted some way down the beach.
The other one was a few weeks ago. I was in a 5.30m lean kayak coming into shore. Again bad timing meant that the first wave past me and as I was paddling hard to take the bigger wave behind it. Apparently I paddled forward to much because by the time the wave caught up with me it was about to break. It was very steep and my trajectory was perpendicular to it. I felt that I was lifted from the back up to 180. At that point I was standing on the footrest and I though “If I lean forward a bit I will do a 360, cool!!! but I will fall head first and not sure how deep is the beach here… I better stay as I am and hope”. Somehow, the kayak finished the 360 but also added a 180. I mean as it was falling to the beach side carried by the weight, it also flipped on its own, I finished looking out sea on top of the kayak. Pretty cool if I could do it at will!!
Good stories, Fer. Thank you for sharing. I always enjoy a good tale, especially if it involves a wipeout. I laughed out loud when I read “As captain and last on board I jumped off ship.”
Your second story about the pitchpoling was interesting because you had the thought that you might be able to do it at will. That’s how people become very proficient in surf and are able to do a variety of surfing tricks. Perhaps the next time you go out, you can try to recreate your 360 on purpose.
Great post E&J and great comments. No question about it, if you’re gonna go surfin’ in a kayak, you’re gonna pay your dues. That photo of Misha at La Push is one of the scariest Tsunami Ranger pix I’ve ever seen, and you mates aren’t exactly wanting for knee-knocking shots. Big water = big dues. Swimmer first, kayaker second, and yes, Eric, I’m working on it…
In the latest issue of Sea Kayaker, Matt Broze mentions that “Steve Dutton paddled the Oregon Coast one winter and pulled off many risky landings through huge surf using innovative techniques”. I missed that epic. What were those innovative techniques, anyway?
I really loved Rainier’s lexicon of ways that one can get whack-a-moled in surf; also the mental image of driving a bulldozer through Prairie Dog Town. Definitely don’t want to get close enough to see the whites of those folks eyes as the realization dawns that they’re gonna be chowin’ down on a yakwich in about 4 seconds. Glad you brought it up, because there are still a lot of folks out there who haven’t gotten the word. We are all ambassadors of our sport, like it or not.
My Nordy is a great boat, but it’s also a surf broach-o-matic if I get more than a whisker off-line, and that lean, mean snout loves to bury itself up to the cockpit if it gets cooking on a steep enough face – ooops! Still, riding in on a broach (my default position) is better than any amusement park ride, which I suspect is why we all love the surf zone so much. Like Kenny said, it’s so much fun!
As for Steve Dutton (I do not know him personally nor have I read his personal account) making many risky landings on the Oregon coast in winter with “innovative techniques,” there are only three possibilities:
1. He did some combo of techniques we describe in this post (most likely), which are cool but at this point no longer innovative as we and people like Andy Taylor and Steve Sinclair of Force Ten have been advocating them for decades. I invite Matt Broze and Steve Dutton to respond here as to what his innovative landing techniques were (curious minds want to know).
2. He paddled during a mild weather period and lucked out with easy landings in considerably less than huge surf. Which could happen, because sometimes even winter has a week or two of small surf. Nifty, but nothing innovative or risky in that. (possible, even probable)
3. His innovative landings in huge surf actually involved pulling into protected harbors and landing at the marina where hot clam chowder awaited him (this is what I would have done on really big surf days, if at all possible).
If any reader knows how Steve Dutton did his many innovative and risky landings in huge surf, please describe his techniques. I’m always interested in learning more.
Oh yes, in three weeks or so we’ll complete this surfzone kayaking series with an essay on “surf etiquette.” Stay tuned.
I haven’t read the Sea Kayaker article. The following details are foggy as I’ve had to retrieve them from my memory. I’m guessing it was Steph Dutton. He paddled from British Columbia to Baja California in 1993 (B.C. to B.C. in ’93) as I remember it. I think he also used a hull breathing snorkle to give him hang time while inverted. I believe he had land based support to help scout landing sites and used harbors where possible: who wouldn’t!
I met him and paddled with him some time ago. He’s very cool guy.
You know, it’s funny. As soon as you said Steph Dutton, a little bell went off in my head. I remember his trip now. Yeah, epic paddle from BC to BC. If he indeed used a hull snorkle (never heard of it but can groove on the concept), that would indeed be innovative! And if he landed at chowder houses, then he ranks high in the smarts department. If I recall, he did the trip with only one good leg, which makes the whole thing even more amazing.
Here’s a toast to Steph Dutton and to all expeditioners who crash through surf on a big trip!
I know Steph, and remember when he was planning this trip. I think he asked for my “advice,” and all I could say was it sounded crazy (he wanted to do it in the Winter!!). But he did it and he made it. I think part of the special technique bit had to do with the fact he only has one leg.
One thing for sure, he’s a very strong paddler, with tons of courage!
Speed read it all…but see no mention of paddling in backwards when attempting to land on shore. It’s a technique I use when the surf is big. You have to pull up your rudder and have a good back stroke as you inch in backwards ever ready to meet crashing waves that are groping for shore. …..sometime doing things backwards has it merits. A hui hou, Micco
Micco, you must have sped through the final couple of paragraphs too fast.
We do mention going in backwards and don’t recommend it. Of course, if it works for you, go for it. Doesn’t work for me, as I prefer to use the wave energy and ride it in, rather than chance being driven backwards, out of control. Meeting a crashing wave (in BIG surf), while inching backwards toward shore, won’t end well. You’ll be pitched backwards for sure. I’m talking about big waves. If the waves are small enough to punch into without getting backsurfed, they are small enough to surf in forwards with control.
Where I really come down on this issue is you shouldn’t be landing in big surf if you lack the surfing skills necessary to negotiate it in the first place. Which is not to say I didn’t made that very mistake more than once when I was first paddling on the open coast, but I still don’t advise it.
Just as an aside, I find it considerably easier to land in big surf than to launch through it. Landing you are using the wave energy to your advantage. Launching, you have to time it perfectly and/or fight it all the way out. To a beginner it seems easier and less intimidating facing into the waves, and maybe it is easier if it’s small. That’s not the case when it gets big or really steep.
Very interesting to see the different opinions of Micco (an expert ocean paddler) and then Eric & John (also experts) regarding coming in through big surf backwards. I guess this is a good example of “each to his own”! However, I have to agree with Eric and John that coming in backwards in big surf is not what I would promote. If one is trying to avoid the waves at their most powerful area in the surf zone, then one should try to get through that impact zone as fast as possible. So, paddling forwards is the best way to do this (assuming good timing as previously mentioned).
Although, one time did I go in backwards feeling that it was the best way. The surf was only moderate and easily dealt with had there been no obstructions, but I had to come in through a rock reef that had numerous keyholes (only about 4-6 ft wide) before entering the lagoon behind. By coming in backwards, I was able to bide my time by punching out through numerous incoming waves and this allowed me to hold my position while searching for the right opening to go through. This backwards technique worked well for that specific technical situation.
There is an old hippie saying: “Whatever floats your boat.” I know Micco well and can attest that he is an excellent sea kayaker who can handle surf, no problemo.
I’d venture a guess that he is referring to paddling with clients who don’t yet know how to best utilize a wave’s energy to get into shore. They would feel safer facing what they consider the danger rather than facing shore, even though that’s where they are going.
Though, in general (every rule can be broken given the right circumstance) we don’t advocate paddling/surfing in backwards (cuz you can’t see where you’re going–like driving a car backwards only w/o mirrors), we do say in the essay that you should face out to sea to make sure the ideal wave situation is happening before committing to exiting the surf. That way you can boogie back out to sea if it doesn’t look good.
Eric, love you’re reply. I was just thinking, my best static breathing time is 4:46min so why don’t we send Umberto Pelizari or Jacques Mayol in the meat and see what happens.
Marty Perry
For my readers: Pelizari and Mayol are famous record-setting free divers who have dove below 100 meters on one breath (kids, don’t try this at home). I don’t know how they would fare in a whitewater thrashing, but the idea that one can control breathing to the point of being one with the water for a long time is intriguing. Yogic breathing….
The danger of course is “shallow water blackout”. Many people die from holding their breath too long in shallow water. They go unconscious about 10-30 feet down and drown. Tsunami Ranger Misha Dynnikov may have died this way while free diving in Hawaii a few years ago.
A way to cheat breathe in wave foam is to suck air through your teeth, thereby trapping the water in your mouth while allowing the air in the foam to enter your lungs. I’ve done it 4 or 5 times while getting thrashed in ocean whitewater. I’m not recommending the practice, just reporting on what I did. It worked for me.
Eric…in response to what you’ve just said about “shallow water blackout”, I hope you don’t mind if I make a correction, and this doesn’t seem too pedantic?
SWB does happen in shallow water (less than 30′ usually and even sometimes on the surface), but it’s not from holding ones breath for too long in shallow water. But rather it happens after coming up from a significantly deeper depth–when depth and down time have been too great for that particular individual’s capabilities.
I can’t spit out all the technical medical and physiological jargon, but essentially the movement of oxygen into brain tissue (so one can stay conscious) is more effective under pressure (being deeper in the water in this case) than when the pressure is reduced (as when one nears the surface when ending a freedive). In the last 33′ feet of depth, when the freediver is returning to the surface, the body will undergo it’s greatest pressure change. This is all about Boyles law of gas in relation to atmospheres of pressure.
Of course, one can still drown from holding their breath too long in shallow water, but this is called something else. This would be more like what could happen to a surfer (or kayaker) that is held down too long in big surf and blacks out and then drowns. Breathholding skills and the ability to relax while being “maytagged” could be the essential skills needed to survive in this case. Not really where most of us want to go!
Thanks for the clarification Mark. As a kayaker I never go any deeper under water than I would in a capsize, so thankfully I don’t have to worry about pressure changes as I come up from 60 ft down.
However, there is a real gem in your last paragraph for all kayakers. I think I mentioned this before in another post but it bears repeating:
The single most important thing you can do to preserve your breath while being maytagged or held underwater is to RELAX.
You will use up oxygen faster when in panic mode and tensing your muscles. I have noticed this more than once, when I was getting worked upside down in a wave, waiting for the right moment to roll up. On one memorable occasion I told myself to relax, actually relaxed my muscles, and immediately noticed it became easier to hold my breath. Maybe it was psychological, but I don’t think so.
Thanks for the “shallow water” correction, Mark! I’m not a deep free diver, just a snorkeler nowadays, but I regularly go down to 30 feet (even with my busted aorta). I was not referring to the “go down 100 meters and then black out at 30 feet due to pressure change and your body signals a shut off but you’re still underwater and then you die.” I was referring to being in shallow water from the gitgo and then blacking out–the normal way that people bite the big one when underwater.
Without getting too technical, there are a couple of ways shallow water blackout commonly happens. The first is most common in competent free divers and snorkellers who do dive down a fair way. This happens when you dive deep, and more gas is forced into your blood stream from the lungs. For SCUBA divers this causes nitrogen narcosis and oxygen toxicity as well as the bends if they come up too fast. For free divers the danger comes as you approach the surface, particularly in the last 30 feet where the pressure halves over that distance, dissolved gases come back out of your bloodstream and into your lungs quite rapidly and the oxygen saturation in your blood crashes. On the way back up after your dive, the oxygen saturation in your blood is already getting low hence the sudden loss of consciousness. If you don’t have a buddy spotting you on the surface that’s not a good situation.
The other common effect is caused by “over breathing” or hyperventillation. The more deep breathing you do on the surface the higher the oxygen content of your blood AND the lower the carbon dioxide level gets in your blood. It’s the increase in CO2 that triggers the breathing reflex, so hyperventillating lets you stay down longer but if you overdo it you will run out of oxygen in your blood stream without ever getting the urge to breathe. This is the one that gets alot of snorkellers who haven’t had the benefit of some training and it’s not necessarily depth related.
I believe there’s a third mechanism but haven’t read up on it.
Interestingly, good free divers practice deep relaxation techniques to increase their down time, by reducing their metabolic rate dramatically. The only other sports people I’m aware of who commonly have this level of control of their bodies are yoga practitioners and target shooters.
John, wow, thanks for the explication on SWB. It’s interesting how comments flow in one direction for awhile.
I’d say some yogis (the ones who emphasize prana) do deep relaxing breathing extensively. Some tai chi people concentrate on breathing, as do zen archers. We’d all benefit from yogic (or related) breathing exercises, both on and off the water.
Here’s a little challenge for my readers. Go to the end of a 25-yard (or 50-meter or whatever you can get) pool, sink down, push off the wall and see how far you can go with one breath. Then try swimming underwater very efficiently and relaxed, and see how far you can go with one breath. Then do a slow deep breathing cycle (I hate to say “hyperventilate” which I associate with noisy huffing and puffing–but you do want to blow off excess CO2), relax, take a breath, and see how far you can go.
I find I can go at least 25% farther, and often 75%. Also, I slowly let my breath out as I swim underwater, so my lungs aren’t straining (wasting energy) trying to hold it in. At age 58, after 3 open heart surgeries on my aorta and aortic valve, I can easily swim 25 yards underwater after the pranic breathing and not be breathless when I surface. My heart rate doesn’t even go up.
What does this mean for kayakers upside down in the Maytag? It means that these breathing and relaxing principles (as John Lull and Mark Hutson mention above) can be used to greatly extend the upside down time while in a foam sandwich. I do it every time.
Sure you can go farther when you increase your ventilatory volume and decrease the level of CO2 in your blood.
You might also die trying.
Whether you’re panting or doing some “relaxation” breathing or other “martial arts” breathing, if you breathe in such a manner as to lower the carbon dioxide in your bloodstream, be aware that you’re playing Russian Roulette. Decreased blood CO2, as a Google search for Shallow Water Blackout will quickly show, causes problems by fooling your brain’s breathing centers into thinking you’re doing okay, when if fact your oxygen level drops to a point insufficient to maintain consciousness. In addition, lower CO2 leads to less blood perfusing the brain, which can itself cause loss of consciousness.
When I was a kid, we played this (stupid) game in which we would hyperventilate and then valsalva (bearing down, like trying to go to the bathroom). We’d predictably black out. Same dynamics as SWB.
Relaxing to increase your underwater “hangtime”: great idea. Increasing your ventilation to do so: risking needless death.
Good point, av, and thanks for the warning. Just speaking for myself, I guess it’s a good thing I’m too lazy to do anything special, like hyperventilating, aside from relaxing (which doesn’t take any special work), to increase my ability to stay underwater. I don’t want to stay underwater. I definitely have no need to dive down 30 feet or anything like that. If I really wanted to get into diving I’d learn scuba and use air tanks, etc. But I much prefer to stay in my kayak up on the surface where I can breath!
True fact, Av, and well said. Russian Roulette is a very good analogy. As I recall, the safety literature distinguishes between Shallow Water Blackout and Deep Water Blackout; separate physiological triggers with the same result: you lose consciousness and drown. It’s important to remember that both phenomena occur suddenly and without warning. Unlike the normal sensation of “running out of air” where the urge to breathe increases in intensity, these blackouts are not preceded by any early warning sensation at all.
Another good argument for wearing thermal protection when frolicking about in a cold water surf zone is that unprotected cold water immersion dramatically reduces breath-holding time. For example, an individual who can breath-hold for an average of 1 minute or more is very often reduced to less than 10 seconds in cold water. This is exclusive of other cold shock responses such as the gasp reflex and hyperventilation. For obvious reasons, this phenomenon has not been studied in thermally unprotected individuals who are being thrashed about in cold surf after sprinting to break the wave barrier and losing, and we can expect them to fare much worse than the grad students in a physiology lab…
Thanks, Av, for your comments on SWB. I agree with you, Moulton and JohnA above, that hyperventilation is a bad thing, and the research supports this. I’ve already lost one good friend to SWB.
I would add that scientific and clinical research into SWB, DWB, hyperventilation and the like is in its infancy (just as it is in cold water shock and other physiological phenomena associated with water immersion). While I fully believe the findings on hyperventilating (blowing off CO2) and the tricking of the body and the subsequent blackout w/o warning, that does not mean I’m wrong about pranic breathing extending underwater time.
Note in my comment above I suggest a “slow, deep breathing cycle”, not a mere “huffing and puffing” shallow breathing style associated with hyperventilation. As a heart patient (aortic valve replacement), I cannot kayak if I do not do pranic breathing. I run out of energy. When physically active (kayaking, tai chi, swimming on top of water or underwater), it’s imperative for me to consciously control my breathing. I ensure that I get rid of CO2 (which is poison; try taking in a breath of it–you won’t be able to do it) and other waste while simultaneously infusing my lungs and body with lots of fresh oxygenated air. As I mentioned above, certain yoga and tai chi practictioners do this type of breathing. I can say from personal experience that it definitely works.
Can anyone else weigh in here and refute or support what I’m saying?
Thank you all for your comments. I do appreciate it.
Eric, I totally relate to the type of breathing you are describing. As you say, I don’t think it has anything to do with “hufffing & puffing” or hyperventilating. Deep breathing in a relaxed manner is healthy and useful on a lot of levels, not the least of which it will help you relax and is mentally stimulating. As a sax player, I have to use a certain amount of deep breathing, air support, and air control. That’s one huge difference between playing a wind instrument and a piano or guitar.
Anyway, most of us don’t use our lungs to anywhere near their full capacity. I highly recommend the type of pranic breathing you describe.
I want to echo John’s point, Eric. The pranic breathing you refer to sounds a lot like Kokyo-ho in Aikido, a deep rhythmic breathing. The focus is on breath “control” and energy, and has nothing to do with the “overbreathing” that can lead to SWB.
Breath control is an important feature of many techniques in a wide range of disciplines, amd is frequently cited as having a calming, focusing influence. Hmmmm. Sounds like something every sea kayaker could use to good advantage.
This is a fascinating subject in it’s own right, and worthy of a future post of its own.
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Hey, Ambient Music (love that name – it reminds me of the sea) glad you enjoyed this post. Thank you so much for your comment – we love to hear from readers, especially when they say nice things 🙂 Keep in touch!
[…] Note: Eric and fellow Tsunami Ranger John Lull have just posted an excellent article on exiting the surf, an area I hadn’t even thought to touch on! Read their excellent article here. […]
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What should you do when, and I’m not saying this has happened to me (cough cough), you start to surf down from the top of the wave with little semblance of control and realise there’s a big bloody rock directly in front that is unavoidable. I.e. You are nose down, just speeding down from the top of the face, pointy end about to jam into craggy rock with 190 billion litres of surging water breaking behind you? I ask because my technique seemed to hurt a little too much….. FP
Good question Fat Paddler! If you’ve already taken the drop and there’s no way you can steer around the rock, you’ll have only a split second to react. I’d immediately tilt my boat into the wave (try to get into a broach if possible) and hope that the wave washes me up and over the rock, hull first. At worst you’ll hit the rock with your hull instead of your bow or your body.
Of course if you’re talking about a rock that was exposed above the waterline, then your first mistake was not scoping the area well enough before surfing in. A really good argument for using option #2, riding the TOP of the wave without dropping down the face, is when you have to land in a surf zone where rocks are present, or think rocks are present. Up on top of the wave, you’ll be able to ride over and clear of the rocks.
Thank you, E & J, that is very, very good guidance.
Nick.
One trick I’ve used successfully with a planing hull on giant breaking waves (requires precise timing) is to wait until the wave is about to break, then take the drop, shoot way out in front, then let the wave break on the stern and/or for the foam pile to catch up to you and brace into it. Otherwise, my fave move is to ride atop the last wave of a big set, back off before it breaks, surf the next (and smaller wave) through the big wave impact zone, back off before IT breaks, immediately paddle through the smaller wave impact zone. After that, all you’ll have to deal with is foam piles of various sizes… easy to brace into, and jack yourself up on with forward and reverse sweeps.
So Paul, you’re saying you like to do a Choice 3-2-1. Well, I’ll tell you, IT WORKS FOR ME! I’ve done the exact same thing (surf, lip, paddle like hell) on many occasions. Thanks for bringing up that one can do combo moves as needed to get in. It’s sort of like jujitsu. We showed three techniques, and a good jujitsuka will combine them for maximum effect in a real situation.
John and I thought about giving more detailed suggestions and trying to discuss all options, but John pointed out that that would use 10,000+ words instead of the 1,000 we were aiming for. So that got axed.
a bit of a technique to get out of a broach – if necessary; eg: you’re stuck in a broach, riding toward shore, and closing in on wiping out a bunch of people playing in the surf, or a surfer dude heading out, etc.:
– intentionally roll downstream (towards shore) and stay upside down waiting for the wave to pass, then roll up and paddle away from obstruction. Takes a bit of practice – as it’s a bit unnerving to ‘intentionally’ windowshade. It happens very fast.
Andy
So, Andy, let me get this straight. You’re suggesting that a broacher purposefully windowshade down the wave (as in the series pictures above) and stay upside down to halt momentum should a pod of kids be downwave, correct? WORKS FOR ME!
When we wrote to lean into the wave and not away, it’s so the paddler wouldn’t accidentally windowshade, which is so fun to watch 😉
BTW, a technique I use when broaching to avoid downwave obstacles (e.g., surfer dudes, rocks), is to scull/draw-and-forward-(or back)-paddle while leaning into the wave to subtly sneak away from the obstacle. So, as you still have your hull facing the obstacle, you slowly maneuver up or down the beach while riding the broach. This works only if you have a few seconds before impact. If there were kids below, as in your example, and no time, I’d definitely do an emergency abort and windowshade–anything so I don’t make mincemeat (literally) out of the little guys.
However, if it was a rock downwave, as Fat Paddler was asking about, I’d follow John’s advice in a comment above and hit the sucker full force with my hull (again, assuming I had no time to sneak out of the way). No way would I let myself hit a rock while I’m upside down. Protecting my head and thorax is numero uno for me. I can always get a new boat (and have done so many, many times, unfortunately).
As a last-ditch resort, what Andy suggests might be your only choice, if you find a surfer-dude or other swimmers in your path (I’m pretty sure he wasn’t talking about a rock, since you don’t have to worry about injuring the rock!). But it still doesn’t guarantee you won’t mow down the hapless swimmer/surfer. I’ve windowshaded and eventually rolled back up, only to find myself still broaching along on the wave, so it’s not foolproof.
This really brings up an extremely important point (as Eric said, we only gave the briefest outline). Before jumping on a wave to surf into shore, make certain you aren’t going to plow through a bunch of surfers or kids playing in the soup zone. Pick a clear area to land and leave plenty of room to either side.
Nice article.
I agree with you when you say: “In bigger surf the “go in backwards” method is too slow and awkward, and invites out-of-control back surfing, possibly resulting in collision with something or someone behind you.”
I find that the best sea kayaks for coming-in thought the surf zone are fish form shaped hulls. I tend to get decent speed to outrun the dump zone and if/when broached they tend to keep the bow pointed slightly forward towards the beach.
The opposite happens to me when using a Swede form kayak.
I tend to be broach much easier and spin around to then suddenly surf backwards. Since the stern tends to have less rocker it pitches me up in the air resulting in a reverse endo. Great fun if predicted and intentional. Very intimidating if not 🙂
Gnarly Dog, there are trade-offs in all design aspects. I don’t mind using a faster Swede-form kayak (see surfski) to run into the beach through breakers, because the speed (and rudder) can give you an edge over the slower fish-form design. Even a fish-form will broach and do a 180 if you let it happen. The key if the surf is big, or if people are watching you from shore, is to tune in and time it, Tsunami Ranger style, and ride in ON TOP of the wave like John Lull taught me. If the surf zone covers a wide area, chances are you’re going to have to sprint to make it to the beach unscathed. If the whitewater catches up to you, you need to deal with it. It’s all so much fun, fun, fun!
Eric, great post. I’m with you on the Three Primary Choices and the flexibility to change between them.
It also depends on which boat I’m paddling. Both of my following examples are of course hypothetical, best case outcomes.
I’ve been window shaded; pitch-poled, reverse pitch-poled, tubed, back surfed, Maytagged, rag dolled, stripped out of my boat and all the rest.
I believe it’s also key to spend time outside; and tune into the set patterns, locate where the waves break and identify hazards and obstacles. That will help me determine where and how I’m going to land.
Momentum is also key to maintaining directional control. I either have to equal or exceed the speed of the swell or wave to maintain the illusion that I’m in control.
In a short boat, I’ll work my way in and pick a good wave to surf to shore. Or I’ll transit from Safe Zone to Safe Zone until I’m close enough to get pushed in by a foam pile. Tactical paddling.
In my long boat, “Charlie Don’t Surf”. I like to vector in; keep momentum, stay in the green water (when possible), choose a smaller wave and broach parallel to the wave face and foam pile. The broach method usually carries my longboat through the Soup Zone and deposits it firmly on the sand.
Agreed, this is not an option when swimmers and surfers are present. I really wouldn’t want to attempt it when people are around. Kind of like driving a bulldozer through Prairie Dog Town. Not cool.
And don’t kids love kayaks ! They tend to run down to the waters edge to watch the fun, not realising that the surfing boat is going to be a 120kg missile heading their way, usually broadside on.
Kenny mentioned: “Even a fish-form will broach and do a 180 if you let it happen.” Yes, that is for sure, especially sea kayaks or other relatively long kayaks. We didn’t specify, but we’re mostly talking about landing a long boat as opposed to a whitewater or surf kayak, which are different beasts.
Fish form, swede form, shmead form, I’ve never really understood all those terms (just shows my ignorance, I guess) or how they were supposed to effect the performance of a sea kayak, but I do know, for sure, that a longer, relatively straight-tracking kayak will broach in a millisecond if you get slightly off track!
Yes, John, I agree, fish, swede, if it works for me, I don’t care what it looks like. (my ‘daily-stretch’ paddling boat looks like a ‘coke bottle’ (a Warren light craft))
My Romany (and previously owned Explorers) – banana boats to be sure, would get stuck in a broach quite easily (in heavy surf – I could not get out – other than flipping intensionally)
while I haven’t taken my (fairly recent) Tahe Greenland in a heavy surf (it’s carbon and would crush like an eggshell), in a moderate surf – when enveloped in a breaking wave, will broach for a short time before getting ‘slapped’ downstream – where I either need to ride out safely or carve off to the left or right – with the expensive carbon boat I’ll avoid pitch poling as much as possible (frustrating – kind of like – pulling out just before… wait a minute – this is a ‘family show’).
Andy
Rainer: excellent advice. Also, anyone who has had to go through surf in a kayak has been rag-dolled, maytagged, etc. (loved the way you expressed that). Thanks for bringing the wipeout factors up. That’s part of the dues that must be paid.
And JohnA: Yeah, kids love to run into the surf and “help.” That is a major safety issue, even if you are in complete control. The few times when that has happened I scream at the top of my lungs: “MOVE!” And then put on a facial expression like I’m a maniac ready to mow them down on purpose. Since kids are smart, they immediately get it that they’re gonna die, and they run like the Dickens back up the beach to safety. After I safely land, I smile and say hi to the kids, so they know that I’m not a total maniac.
To all readers of this post: If you want more great photos of the surf and more info on what to do in it, right now go over to Fat Paddler’s website and check it out at http://fatpaddler.com/2011/07/qa-with-cmdr-eric-soares-tsunami-rangers-on-kayak-surfing-and-rock-gardens/.
So many variations for the same carnage.
Here are my tricks, first build up you’re confidence to the max in order to maximize O2 levels and practice hyperventilation (free diving) breathing, and this will make you invincible and impervious to pain. I tried that ride the crest in Florida once, a few days before hurricane Wilma hit, and got a serious backfire when I ended up in a curl which fit my entire boat and got plucked out of the cockpit when the curtain imploded my skirt. Then I swam for over a half our. It was huge.
I like to deliberately lean away from the foam on big impacts, this allows me to brunt the initial impact under water while being very well tucked in, and then I’ll roll up midway or at the end, whatever feels the best. When the bow digs in, sometimes I lean forward just a bit more, edge like 90 degrees and slam a quick stroke and that may carve you’re way out of there just in time.
Marty Perry
Interesting take on it, Marty. Just goes to show there are more ways to deal with surf and everyone has their favorite. Whatever works is what I say. However, leaning away from the foam is the exact opposite of everything that works for me. The one exception of course, which I think you’re talking about, is to get underwater where you’re ‘protected,’ similar to rolling over when confronted by a large breaker while paddling out, or windowshading on purpose. Otherwise, I’m tilting my boat into the foam, whether it’s in the surf, a tide rip, or a whitewater river. That’s how you stay upright and in control (well, mostly).
Riding the top of a wave only works if you can stay up there. Once you drop down into the curl, or off the back of the wave into the oncoming curl, you’re toast.
Marty,
I like your idea of powering up your system before taking on a big swell, as a freediver might. I would add that doing tai chi-type breathing while surfing, broaching, etc., greatly increases my power and well-being, and should you take a beating underwater for 30 seconds, at least you’ll be oxygenated!
No, don’t get me started on sucking air in through your teeth while in the foam!
Eirikoy the Red
Two stories from me, and both failed on the same principle: timing.
The first was a few years ago, coming out from the beach in a big sit in river style kayak, not a slalom or anything WW but very slow and stable. The waves looked very big, at least in my memory, and I timed wrongly the exit from the beach. The biggest of the set, which I am sure was not a small set, broke exactly inside my kayak. I mean it broke on the skirt imploding it inside the kayak and reaping it from the rims. The kayak halted immediately and immediately was full of water with not skirt, floating just above the surface and the next wave was coming in. As captain and last on board I jumped off ship. Swam to shore with my paddle and then went to recover the kayak that drifted some way down the beach.
The other one was a few weeks ago. I was in a 5.30m lean kayak coming into shore. Again bad timing meant that the first wave past me and as I was paddling hard to take the bigger wave behind it. Apparently I paddled forward to much because by the time the wave caught up with me it was about to break. It was very steep and my trajectory was perpendicular to it. I felt that I was lifted from the back up to 180. At that point I was standing on the footrest and I though “If I lean forward a bit I will do a 360, cool!!! but I will fall head first and not sure how deep is the beach here… I better stay as I am and hope”. Somehow, the kayak finished the 360 but also added a 180. I mean as it was falling to the beach side carried by the weight, it also flipped on its own, I finished looking out sea on top of the kayak. Pretty cool if I could do it at will!!
Good stories, Fer. Thank you for sharing. I always enjoy a good tale, especially if it involves a wipeout. I laughed out loud when I read “As captain and last on board I jumped off ship.”
Your second story about the pitchpoling was interesting because you had the thought that you might be able to do it at will. That’s how people become very proficient in surf and are able to do a variety of surfing tricks. Perhaps the next time you go out, you can try to recreate your 360 on purpose.
For readers who would like to see a good video clip of Tsunami Rangers surfing in waves and among rocks, go to Fat Paddler’s site and click on this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Ec_Jd_EPm0Y. Some of the moves we did on purpose!
Great post E&J and great comments. No question about it, if you’re gonna go surfin’ in a kayak, you’re gonna pay your dues. That photo of Misha at La Push is one of the scariest Tsunami Ranger pix I’ve ever seen, and you mates aren’t exactly wanting for knee-knocking shots. Big water = big dues. Swimmer first, kayaker second, and yes, Eric, I’m working on it…
In the latest issue of Sea Kayaker, Matt Broze mentions that “Steve Dutton paddled the Oregon Coast one winter and pulled off many risky landings through huge surf using innovative techniques”. I missed that epic. What were those innovative techniques, anyway?
I really loved Rainier’s lexicon of ways that one can get whack-a-moled in surf; also the mental image of driving a bulldozer through Prairie Dog Town. Definitely don’t want to get close enough to see the whites of those folks eyes as the realization dawns that they’re gonna be chowin’ down on a yakwich in about 4 seconds. Glad you brought it up, because there are still a lot of folks out there who haven’t gotten the word. We are all ambassadors of our sport, like it or not.
My Nordy is a great boat, but it’s also a surf broach-o-matic if I get more than a whisker off-line, and that lean, mean snout loves to bury itself up to the cockpit if it gets cooking on a steep enough face – ooops! Still, riding in on a broach (my default position) is better than any amusement park ride, which I suspect is why we all love the surf zone so much. Like Kenny said, it’s so much fun!
Good comments, Moulton–a lot to digest. Thanks.
As for Steve Dutton (I do not know him personally nor have I read his personal account) making many risky landings on the Oregon coast in winter with “innovative techniques,” there are only three possibilities:
1. He did some combo of techniques we describe in this post (most likely), which are cool but at this point no longer innovative as we and people like Andy Taylor and Steve Sinclair of Force Ten have been advocating them for decades. I invite Matt Broze and Steve Dutton to respond here as to what his innovative landing techniques were (curious minds want to know).
2. He paddled during a mild weather period and lucked out with easy landings in considerably less than huge surf. Which could happen, because sometimes even winter has a week or two of small surf. Nifty, but nothing innovative or risky in that. (possible, even probable)
3. His innovative landings in huge surf actually involved pulling into protected harbors and landing at the marina where hot clam chowder awaited him (this is what I would have done on really big surf days, if at all possible).
If any reader knows how Steve Dutton did his many innovative and risky landings in huge surf, please describe his techniques. I’m always interested in learning more.
Oh yes, in three weeks or so we’ll complete this surfzone kayaking series with an essay on “surf etiquette.” Stay tuned.
I haven’t read the Sea Kayaker article. The following details are foggy as I’ve had to retrieve them from my memory. I’m guessing it was Steph Dutton. He paddled from British Columbia to Baja California in 1993 (B.C. to B.C. in ’93) as I remember it. I think he also used a hull breathing snorkle to give him hang time while inverted. I believe he had land based support to help scout landing sites and used harbors where possible: who wouldn’t!
I met him and paddled with him some time ago. He’s very cool guy.
You know, it’s funny. As soon as you said Steph Dutton, a little bell went off in my head. I remember his trip now. Yeah, epic paddle from BC to BC. If he indeed used a hull snorkle (never heard of it but can groove on the concept), that would indeed be innovative! And if he landed at chowder houses, then he ranks high in the smarts department. If I recall, he did the trip with only one good leg, which makes the whole thing even more amazing.
Here’s a toast to Steph Dutton and to all expeditioners who crash through surf on a big trip!
I know Steph, and remember when he was planning this trip. I think he asked for my “advice,” and all I could say was it sounded crazy (he wanted to do it in the Winter!!). But he did it and he made it. I think part of the special technique bit had to do with the fact he only has one leg.
One thing for sure, he’s a very strong paddler, with tons of courage!
Speed read it all…but see no mention of paddling in backwards when attempting to land on shore. It’s a technique I use when the surf is big. You have to pull up your rudder and have a good back stroke as you inch in backwards ever ready to meet crashing waves that are groping for shore. …..sometime doing things backwards has it merits. A hui hou, Micco
Micco, you must have sped through the final couple of paragraphs too fast.
We do mention going in backwards and don’t recommend it. Of course, if it works for you, go for it. Doesn’t work for me, as I prefer to use the wave energy and ride it in, rather than chance being driven backwards, out of control. Meeting a crashing wave (in BIG surf), while inching backwards toward shore, won’t end well. You’ll be pitched backwards for sure. I’m talking about big waves. If the waves are small enough to punch into without getting backsurfed, they are small enough to surf in forwards with control.
Where I really come down on this issue is you shouldn’t be landing in big surf if you lack the surfing skills necessary to negotiate it in the first place. Which is not to say I didn’t made that very mistake more than once when I was first paddling on the open coast, but I still don’t advise it.
Just as an aside, I find it considerably easier to land in big surf than to launch through it. Landing you are using the wave energy to your advantage. Launching, you have to time it perfectly and/or fight it all the way out. To a beginner it seems easier and less intimidating facing into the waves, and maybe it is easier if it’s small. That’s not the case when it gets big or really steep.
Very interesting to see the different opinions of Micco (an expert ocean paddler) and then Eric & John (also experts) regarding coming in through big surf backwards. I guess this is a good example of “each to his own”! However, I have to agree with Eric and John that coming in backwards in big surf is not what I would promote. If one is trying to avoid the waves at their most powerful area in the surf zone, then one should try to get through that impact zone as fast as possible. So, paddling forwards is the best way to do this (assuming good timing as previously mentioned).
Although, one time did I go in backwards feeling that it was the best way. The surf was only moderate and easily dealt with had there been no obstructions, but I had to come in through a rock reef that had numerous keyholes (only about 4-6 ft wide) before entering the lagoon behind. By coming in backwards, I was able to bide my time by punching out through numerous incoming waves and this allowed me to hold my position while searching for the right opening to go through. This backwards technique worked well for that specific technical situation.
There is an old hippie saying: “Whatever floats your boat.” I know Micco well and can attest that he is an excellent sea kayaker who can handle surf, no problemo.
I’d venture a guess that he is referring to paddling with clients who don’t yet know how to best utilize a wave’s energy to get into shore. They would feel safer facing what they consider the danger rather than facing shore, even though that’s where they are going.
Though, in general (every rule can be broken given the right circumstance) we don’t advocate paddling/surfing in backwards (cuz you can’t see where you’re going–like driving a car backwards only w/o mirrors), we do say in the essay that you should face out to sea to make sure the ideal wave situation is happening before committing to exiting the surf. That way you can boogie back out to sea if it doesn’t look good.
Eric, love you’re reply. I was just thinking, my best static breathing time is 4:46min so why don’t we send Umberto Pelizari or Jacques Mayol in the meat and see what happens.
Marty Perry
For my readers: Pelizari and Mayol are famous record-setting free divers who have dove below 100 meters on one breath (kids, don’t try this at home). I don’t know how they would fare in a whitewater thrashing, but the idea that one can control breathing to the point of being one with the water for a long time is intriguing. Yogic breathing….
The danger of course is “shallow water blackout”. Many people die from holding their breath too long in shallow water. They go unconscious about 10-30 feet down and drown. Tsunami Ranger Misha Dynnikov may have died this way while free diving in Hawaii a few years ago.
A way to cheat breathe in wave foam is to suck air through your teeth, thereby trapping the water in your mouth while allowing the air in the foam to enter your lungs. I’ve done it 4 or 5 times while getting thrashed in ocean whitewater. I’m not recommending the practice, just reporting on what I did. It worked for me.
Eric…in response to what you’ve just said about “shallow water blackout”, I hope you don’t mind if I make a correction, and this doesn’t seem too pedantic?
SWB does happen in shallow water (less than 30′ usually and even sometimes on the surface), but it’s not from holding ones breath for too long in shallow water. But rather it happens after coming up from a significantly deeper depth–when depth and down time have been too great for that particular individual’s capabilities.
I can’t spit out all the technical medical and physiological jargon, but essentially the movement of oxygen into brain tissue (so one can stay conscious) is more effective under pressure (being deeper in the water in this case) than when the pressure is reduced (as when one nears the surface when ending a freedive). In the last 33′ feet of depth, when the freediver is returning to the surface, the body will undergo it’s greatest pressure change. This is all about Boyles law of gas in relation to atmospheres of pressure.
Of course, one can still drown from holding their breath too long in shallow water, but this is called something else. This would be more like what could happen to a surfer (or kayaker) that is held down too long in big surf and blacks out and then drowns. Breathholding skills and the ability to relax while being “maytagged” could be the essential skills needed to survive in this case. Not really where most of us want to go!
Thanks for the clarification Mark. As a kayaker I never go any deeper under water than I would in a capsize, so thankfully I don’t have to worry about pressure changes as I come up from 60 ft down.
However, there is a real gem in your last paragraph for all kayakers. I think I mentioned this before in another post but it bears repeating:
The single most important thing you can do to preserve your breath while being maytagged or held underwater is to RELAX.
You will use up oxygen faster when in panic mode and tensing your muscles. I have noticed this more than once, when I was getting worked upside down in a wave, waiting for the right moment to roll up. On one memorable occasion I told myself to relax, actually relaxed my muscles, and immediately noticed it became easier to hold my breath. Maybe it was psychological, but I don’t think so.
Thanks for the “shallow water” correction, Mark! I’m not a deep free diver, just a snorkeler nowadays, but I regularly go down to 30 feet (even with my busted aorta). I was not referring to the “go down 100 meters and then black out at 30 feet due to pressure change and your body signals a shut off but you’re still underwater and then you die.” I was referring to being in shallow water from the gitgo and then blacking out–the normal way that people bite the big one when underwater.
Without getting too technical, there are a couple of ways shallow water blackout commonly happens. The first is most common in competent free divers and snorkellers who do dive down a fair way. This happens when you dive deep, and more gas is forced into your blood stream from the lungs. For SCUBA divers this causes nitrogen narcosis and oxygen toxicity as well as the bends if they come up too fast. For free divers the danger comes as you approach the surface, particularly in the last 30 feet where the pressure halves over that distance, dissolved gases come back out of your bloodstream and into your lungs quite rapidly and the oxygen saturation in your blood crashes. On the way back up after your dive, the oxygen saturation in your blood is already getting low hence the sudden loss of consciousness. If you don’t have a buddy spotting you on the surface that’s not a good situation.
The other common effect is caused by “over breathing” or hyperventillation. The more deep breathing you do on the surface the higher the oxygen content of your blood AND the lower the carbon dioxide level gets in your blood. It’s the increase in CO2 that triggers the breathing reflex, so hyperventillating lets you stay down longer but if you overdo it you will run out of oxygen in your blood stream without ever getting the urge to breathe. This is the one that gets alot of snorkellers who haven’t had the benefit of some training and it’s not necessarily depth related.
I believe there’s a third mechanism but haven’t read up on it.
Interestingly, good free divers practice deep relaxation techniques to increase their down time, by reducing their metabolic rate dramatically. The only other sports people I’m aware of who commonly have this level of control of their bodies are yoga practitioners and target shooters.
John, wow, thanks for the explication on SWB. It’s interesting how comments flow in one direction for awhile.
I’d say some yogis (the ones who emphasize prana) do deep relaxing breathing extensively. Some tai chi people concentrate on breathing, as do zen archers. We’d all benefit from yogic (or related) breathing exercises, both on and off the water.
Here’s a little challenge for my readers. Go to the end of a 25-yard (or 50-meter or whatever you can get) pool, sink down, push off the wall and see how far you can go with one breath. Then try swimming underwater very efficiently and relaxed, and see how far you can go with one breath. Then do a slow deep breathing cycle (I hate to say “hyperventilate” which I associate with noisy huffing and puffing–but you do want to blow off excess CO2), relax, take a breath, and see how far you can go.
I find I can go at least 25% farther, and often 75%. Also, I slowly let my breath out as I swim underwater, so my lungs aren’t straining (wasting energy) trying to hold it in. At age 58, after 3 open heart surgeries on my aorta and aortic valve, I can easily swim 25 yards underwater after the pranic breathing and not be breathless when I surface. My heart rate doesn’t even go up.
What does this mean for kayakers upside down in the Maytag? It means that these breathing and relaxing principles (as John Lull and Mark Hutson mention above) can be used to greatly extend the upside down time while in a foam sandwich. I do it every time.
Sure you can go farther when you increase your ventilatory volume and decrease the level of CO2 in your blood.
You might also die trying.
Whether you’re panting or doing some “relaxation” breathing or other “martial arts” breathing, if you breathe in such a manner as to lower the carbon dioxide in your bloodstream, be aware that you’re playing Russian Roulette. Decreased blood CO2, as a Google search for Shallow Water Blackout will quickly show, causes problems by fooling your brain’s breathing centers into thinking you’re doing okay, when if fact your oxygen level drops to a point insufficient to maintain consciousness. In addition, lower CO2 leads to less blood perfusing the brain, which can itself cause loss of consciousness.
When I was a kid, we played this (stupid) game in which we would hyperventilate and then valsalva (bearing down, like trying to go to the bathroom). We’d predictably black out. Same dynamics as SWB.
Relaxing to increase your underwater “hangtime”: great idea. Increasing your ventilation to do so: risking needless death.
Good point, av, and thanks for the warning. Just speaking for myself, I guess it’s a good thing I’m too lazy to do anything special, like hyperventilating, aside from relaxing (which doesn’t take any special work), to increase my ability to stay underwater. I don’t want to stay underwater. I definitely have no need to dive down 30 feet or anything like that. If I really wanted to get into diving I’d learn scuba and use air tanks, etc. But I much prefer to stay in my kayak up on the surface where I can breath!
True fact, Av, and well said. Russian Roulette is a very good analogy. As I recall, the safety literature distinguishes between Shallow Water Blackout and Deep Water Blackout; separate physiological triggers with the same result: you lose consciousness and drown. It’s important to remember that both phenomena occur suddenly and without warning. Unlike the normal sensation of “running out of air” where the urge to breathe increases in intensity, these blackouts are not preceded by any early warning sensation at all.
Another good argument for wearing thermal protection when frolicking about in a cold water surf zone is that unprotected cold water immersion dramatically reduces breath-holding time. For example, an individual who can breath-hold for an average of 1 minute or more is very often reduced to less than 10 seconds in cold water. This is exclusive of other cold shock responses such as the gasp reflex and hyperventilation. For obvious reasons, this phenomenon has not been studied in thermally unprotected individuals who are being thrashed about in cold surf after sprinting to break the wave barrier and losing, and we can expect them to fare much worse than the grad students in a physiology lab…
Thanks, Av, for your comments on SWB. I agree with you, Moulton and JohnA above, that hyperventilation is a bad thing, and the research supports this. I’ve already lost one good friend to SWB.
I would add that scientific and clinical research into SWB, DWB, hyperventilation and the like is in its infancy (just as it is in cold water shock and other physiological phenomena associated with water immersion). While I fully believe the findings on hyperventilating (blowing off CO2) and the tricking of the body and the subsequent blackout w/o warning, that does not mean I’m wrong about pranic breathing extending underwater time.
Note in my comment above I suggest a “slow, deep breathing cycle”, not a mere “huffing and puffing” shallow breathing style associated with hyperventilation. As a heart patient (aortic valve replacement), I cannot kayak if I do not do pranic breathing. I run out of energy. When physically active (kayaking, tai chi, swimming on top of water or underwater), it’s imperative for me to consciously control my breathing. I ensure that I get rid of CO2 (which is poison; try taking in a breath of it–you won’t be able to do it) and other waste while simultaneously infusing my lungs and body with lots of fresh oxygenated air. As I mentioned above, certain yoga and tai chi practictioners do this type of breathing. I can say from personal experience that it definitely works.
Can anyone else weigh in here and refute or support what I’m saying?
Thank you all for your comments. I do appreciate it.
Eric, I totally relate to the type of breathing you are describing. As you say, I don’t think it has anything to do with “hufffing & puffing” or hyperventilating. Deep breathing in a relaxed manner is healthy and useful on a lot of levels, not the least of which it will help you relax and is mentally stimulating. As a sax player, I have to use a certain amount of deep breathing, air support, and air control. That’s one huge difference between playing a wind instrument and a piano or guitar.
Anyway, most of us don’t use our lungs to anywhere near their full capacity. I highly recommend the type of pranic breathing you describe.
I want to echo John’s point, Eric. The pranic breathing you refer to sounds a lot like Kokyo-ho in Aikido, a deep rhythmic breathing. The focus is on breath “control” and energy, and has nothing to do with the “overbreathing” that can lead to SWB.
Breath control is an important feature of many techniques in a wide range of disciplines, amd is frequently cited as having a calming, focusing influence. Hmmmm. Sounds like something every sea kayaker could use to good advantage.
This is a fascinating subject in it’s own right, and worthy of a future post of its own.
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Hey, Ambient Music (love that name – it reminds me of the sea) glad you enjoyed this post. Thank you so much for your comment – we love to hear from readers, especially when they say nice things 🙂 Keep in touch!