Another Lesson Learned the Hard Way
Editor’s Note: This article was first published in Bay Currents (vol.5, no. 2), Feb. 1990, by Tsunami Ranger John Lull
For the past couple of days, I have been sitting around trying to move as little as possible with the jabbing pain of badly bruised muscle, cartilage, tendon, and bone throbbing away in spite of codeine. It could have been much worse. I came to within about four inches of a crushed spine. Hopefully the following words of warning will prevent a similar “accident” in the future for some of you who are reading this.
On Saturday, January 27, a large group of BASKers got together for a “skills practice session” in Half Moon Bay. After fooling around in the harbor practicing rolls and rescues, some of us got bored and decided to go surf at Pillar Point just outside the harbor. It was a typical January day at the reef: large sets of waves alternating with small sets and flat spells. The reef is treacherous to anyone lacking surfing skills and/or good judgment at reading waves. Many of the group were inexperienced with the ocean and breaking waves, but those of us familiar with the area were eager to get out there and we failed to inform the others of the dangers (Mistake #1).
After surfing for a while, as I turned and started back at the conclusion of a ride, I noticed a tight cluster of four or five kayaks heading toward me. I was paddling out on a trajectory which would take me just to one side of the break. They were heading right into the break but didn’t know it because the waves had died down for a moment. As our paths converged, I yelled at the lead paddler, who had some surfing experience, that we were all too close together. Then I continued on my way, assuming I had been understood (Mistake #2).
Within seconds a large wave set moved in. As the first wave broke on my bow, I leaned forward and braced, knowing I would be surfing backwards on the break. There was only one problem: another kayak was directly behind me. With the full force of the wave driving me backwards, the lower part of my back smashed square into the bow of that kayak. I’ll never forget that moment for the rest of my life. Nearly blacking out from the blinding pain and with the wind knocked out of me, all I could do was to keep bracing. I didn’t want to capsize because I was in too much pain to roll or swim. After surfing the next wave, I finally reached calm water and began the slow, agonizing paddle back to shore (several hundred meters away).
The paddler who hit me thought she had hit my boat and no one was aware of my predicament. I finally made it back to the beach, established that my back wasn’t broken, realized I wouldn’t be surfing anymore that day, and ate my lunch. It will be at least a month before I can paddle again or do any physical activity, but it could have been forever.
So, what did I learn from all this? First of all, although I would like to place the blame on somebody else, I realize I was as much at fault as anyone. My main error was in not acting immediately when I realized the potential for disaster: a tightly-packed group of kayakers in breaking waves. I should have gotten the hell out of there even if it meant changing course and not hurrying out to catch another ride. This was a grave error in judgment. Failing that, I probably would have been better off capsizing as the wave hit. Although I didn’t realize the other paddlers had followed directly behind me, I knew they were back there somewhere.
So, what did the other paddlers do wrong? Never, never, never ever follow directly behind anyone paddling out through breaking waves. Stay to one side. A group should be fanned out parallel to the waves, not clustered up. Likewise, don’t get in front of anyone surfing a wave. When returning seaward after surfing a wave, paddle out well to one side of the area where others are surfing.
If you do find yourself in the way of anyone surfing (forwards or backwards), immediately turn and paddle out of the way. This requires good boat control. If you don’t think you can get out of the way, capsize and let the other boat surf over your hull, then roll back up. Awareness of what the waves are doing, where they are breaking, and where the other paddlers are, along with boat control, is the most important safety aspect to kayak surfing.
Teamwork is also an important part of kayak surfing. I have surfed three-to-a-wave with Jim and Eric and, although this is usually a dangerous practice, we were able to do it with reasonable safety because we all understood that the two end paddlers would turn in opposite directions. I regularly surf with John Jeppesen, John Dixon, and Frank Ducker. When we occasionally pick up the same wave or get in front of one another, we immediately undertake appropriate evasive action. This works because we stay aware of each other and stay in communication.
I now have a first-hand understanding of the force involved in the impact of a kayak with my body in surf. There is great potential for serious injury. Other kayaks are far more likely to hurt you than the biggest wave. So, keep this firmly in mind. It is a relatively simple matter to avoid collisions using common sense and staying alert.
Note: As of now, this article was written 36 years ago! The lessons stated still apply.
Thanks so much, John, for this very useful article. The story points up the necessity for good communication on the water at all times. Communication is key to safe paddling in a group. Mistake #1 and #2 involved failure to communicate. Don’t make assumptions. For more information on communication on the water see our article on hand signals at https://tsunamirangers.com/2025/03/03/hand-signals-for-sea-kayakers/
In addition, although John acknowledged he was as much to blame as anyone, the person behind him should have checked on him after their boats made contact in the surf. After the collision he could easily have capsized and/or been unable to self rescue. When any paddler makes contact with another boat in surf, the paddlers should check on each other to make sure they’re ok.
Also, as John mentioned, when the wave hit he could have capsized intentionally, in which case his momentum would have stopped and the collision could possibly have been avoided. At the very least, the boat behind him would have gone over his hull instead of striking him bow first in the back. Likewise, if a kayak is travelling toward you in surf and it looks like there will be contact, you can capsize yourself to avoid a collision.
For information on communication in surf specifically for groups, see our article by John and Kenny Howell at https://tsunamirangers.com/2025/09/01/top-dog-hot-dog-on-water-communication-for-group-kayakers/
