Sea kayaking destinations

Kayak Elba – Your Next Destination?

By Barbara Kossy

Editor’s Note: Barbara Kossy has been kayaking the Mediterranean since 1996. She has been to Elba a number of times and it’s one of her favorite kayak destinations.

I set up my life so I could travel, and when I travel to paddle I kayak in Italy, paddling the Island of Elba since 1996.

Elba is a Mediterranean island in Tuscany, Italy. It is the largest island of the Tuscan Archipelago. It is also part of the Arcipelago Toscano National Park. Elba has a total population of around 30,000, which increases considerably in summer. It is the largest remaining stretch of land from the ancient tract that once connected the Italian peninsula to Corsica.

The north coast faces the Ligurian Sea, the east coast the Piombino Channel, the south coast the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the Corsica Channel divides the western tip of the island from neighboring Corsica. Elba has warm temperatures during the months from May to September, from the mid 60’s to the low 80’s.

think I could be exiled to Elba for 300 days... — I think I could be exiled to Elba for 300 days…

One of the best known facts about Elba is that it was used as the “prison” for French Emperor Napoleon I. Following the Treaty of Fontainebleau, Napoleon was exiled there after his forced abdication in 1814. He remained on the island for 300 days, guarded by the British Royal Navy.

In September I stepped from the stout metal of the ferry to the cement of the dock and Harriet and Gaudenzio stood smiling and waving, the late afternoon sun lighting them from behind, white shirts fluttering in the breeze, sunglasses glinting. I’d known Harriet since 1980 in Berkeley and Gau since 1996.

Gaudenzio Cotelli 1997 — Gaudenzio Cotelli, 1997

The sea air smelled warm and sunny. Terra cotta roofs, and dark asphalt heat the shimmering blue sky.

Then Sea Kayak Italy had been named Sea Kayak Adventures. It was a group of avid kayakers starting Italy’s first kayak touring company and school.
During that first visit they asked me if I could bring American kayakers to Italy, to Elba Island, to kayak with them. Yes, of course I can. At least I can try because at that time Italy was known for food and art and architecture, not as a kayak destination.

Barbara has been bringing kayakers to Elba for years

The kayaks were there, lined up on the beach. I chose my familiar favorite the 516 by Sea Kayak Design. On our second day the winds were coming up. We did a bit of skill building in the marina. Learning to scull and roll with the Greenland paddles.

Skill building with competent instructors

To stretch out a bit a few of us paddled the length of the harbor. Just below the red brick Pisan watch tower were a few red and blue painted fishing boats docked by the rough cement boat ramp. It was here we landed after my first Elba paddle in 1996. My first view of Marciana Marina had been by sea. The ramp, the fishing boats. And the watchtower. The church bells ringing at noon. Intoxicating. Addicting.

Kayaks for your pleasure at Marciana Marina

Here’s the webcam for a view of the Marciana Marina harbor from the Marinella Hotel:
http://www.elbahotelmarinella.it/hotel-elba/webcam-marciana-marina.php

Marciana Marina complete with crenellated battlements — Marciana Marina complete with battlements

In June I’ll be returning to kayak and explore the north east and northwest coastal areas. You can join me. See www.barbarakossy.com for more information.

Questions? Comments? Want to set up a trip? Contact Barbara at the web address above!

Opportunities Open Whenever You’re Ready -Kayak Touring the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia

by Joanne and Doug Schwartz

Editor’s note: Always understanding kayaking as a place to be and a way to go, not a transport from here to there, Joanne and her husband Doug have paddled since the mid-1980’s and are still exploring the world, sometimes by kayak. They paddled with Eric, Jim and the Rangers a few times in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s and then got (healthily) caught up in their paddling business in southern California. Nowadays, reading Confessions of a Wave Warrior, bit by bit and over and over, puts Joanne back into those special days, with the spirit of the individual Rangers and call of the sea ringing truth and happiness on each page.

This story of kayak touring along the islands of southern Croatia, in the Adriatic sea, describes one of many coastlines Joanne has explored by kayak. Just spin the globe and pick a line of islands!

Landing on Mljet at Roman Palace, 2nd c. AD, when the sea level was lower. Polace, Mljet Island/NP, Croatia

When getting caught kayaking and tenting in the strongest rain-thunder-lightning storm we have ever seen is the worst thing to happen on a two week paddle, we knew life is great!

The Adriatic sea, with Italy to the west and Croatia to the east, is a sea of legends. It offers some quite spectacular coastal touring for those who can handle an absence of giant waves and surf for a week or two. You can explore a Neanderthal cave, paddle up to a second century AD Roman palace, visit the cave where Odysseus lived for seven years because he could not resist the nymph Calypso, and so much more.

Roman Grain — Perhaps a Roman grain crushing bin. Polace, Mljet Island/NP, Croatia

Our paddling adventure began at the Huck Finn headquarters north of Dubrovnik. We contemplated seven days of paddling, but reluctantly returned after twelve. We could have stayed out another two weeks, as there was so much more coastline to paddle, hiking and snorkeling to do, and ruins to explore. In summary, we kayaked north along the western mainland coast, west across to Mljet Island (pronounced “Milyet”) and around its north end, and down the west coast, winding among several other islands, and returned to Dubrovnik. This segment encompassed two of the six weeks we spent in Croatia from mid-May through June.

A bit from our kayaking logbook …

The paddle north along the mainland was under clear skies, with no wind and thus perfectly calm seas. We paddled close to the limestone coastline to watch the sea life under crystal clear water. Sponges or corals were visible, as were some cherry red anemones and squid. There are very few coves where we can land, as the limestone is everywhere and comes straight down to the sea. But above, on the hillsides, everything is totally green, with pines and oaks and cypress and who knows what other trees. Where there are no trees, there is dense underbrush.

On our third night in Polače (the č is pronounced as “ch” in church) a small village on the NW tip of Mljet island, population about 100, a great thunderstorm came in with terrific rain and great lightning and thunder. We watched it from our balcony until we were too tired to stand. The skies seemed pretty clear on our fourth morning in Polače, but the cumulus clouds were rising all around and we knew there would be more rain. We packed our little kayak and headed out the village harbor and down the west coast for what would be an 8 hour paddle of 20 nautical miles, not counting the many ins and outs of the little bays along the way. Soon the skies blackened and, in fact, we could no longer see the nearby shoreline A thunder and lightening show began and, of course, the rain started. Quickly our environment became truly exciting, alive with sound and bouncy water and steep, following seas. Our bow dove under the waves (the kayak is not as sea worthy as the Feathercraft we have used on so many of our trips) which regularly hit me in the face and chest (the joy of having the bow position!). The highest winds lasted only about 20 minutes, but hard rain continued for two hours. Doug likened it to being under a fire hose focused directly downward on us. The drops were giant and hit the water with such force that they bounced up 2-3 inches before hitting the water again on the way back down. This created a haze on the water which left the sea looking fuzzy. Too, it flattened out all the wind ripples on the surface of the swells and waves making the big lumps seem glassy smooth, even though the sea’s texture was stormy rough. Rain became lighter for a while and the seas calmed down, but soon another set of giant black clouds arrived and we were hit again with a light, sound and water show. After three hours of strong paddling, the sea mellowed and the show stopped, and the day turned sunny and warm. It is funny, the description of Croatian weather in our Lonely Planet guidebook indicates 2 to 3 inches of rain in June. We figure we got 3 inches in each of the 3 storms that day! Yes, we would have sought a landing site early in the day, but steep cliffs prevented any chance of getting off the water.

After 8 hours of continuous paddling, we reached one of the only sandy beaches on our trip, in a little cove at the bottom of Mljet island. We set up our tent, an action which we knew was probably illegal, (laws exist because of “fire danger”, but we were very tired), and were soon visited by a fisherman and his nine-year-old son who informed us that we could not camp there. But, of course, we could stay at his home and he would prepare us dinner, for a price. When we agreed with smiles and enthusiasm, he waived the part about not camping and he left his son to guide us to his home up on a hill, after we completed setting camp. In their garden yard the mother prepared a fantastic dinner. The man caught fresh fish and had home-made rachia/rakia and wine, of course. The mother had made the bread, olives and goat cheese, and picked for us a zucchini from her garden. Perhaps the only part of the entire dinner that they did not grow, catch, raise or make were the pickles on the cheese plate and the flour for crepes at the end.

Immediately after we returned to our tent, the skies again provided another fantastic light show. Normally we count the seconds between light bursts and sound so we can estimate the distance from us to the lightning, but there were often several flashes each second, and many dozens each minute, so distances were meaningless – we knew the thunderhead was immediately over our heads. Often a thunder clap would start to our right and roar and crack continuously until it reached our far left! Fortunately our new light-weight tent held up and we slept very dry and well … after three hours of being stunned by this show.

Hill-Top Forts Everywhere, Fortification on fence and gun slot Sipan Island, Croatia

All was calm and sparkling the next morning. During a crossing we passed two dolphins in the channel, not common here. Too, we passed a tiny channel known for the fierce sea battle between Caesar and Pompey in 47 BC. History is here, everywhere! We went to enjoy a couple of days on Šipan Island (pronounced as “Sch” as in Schwartz), biking all over the island, including to the only other village and many buildings dating from the 15th century. Again, great wandering! Our home is a harbor-side apartment recommended by four Israeli kayakers who were launching as we first landed. We have encountered them and six British kayakers here and on Mljet, all decked out in proper touring kayaks! A fine place to paddle!

Exploring Sipan Is, Croatia where the forest is retaking an ancient building. — Exploring Sipan Island, Croatia where the forest is retaking an ancient building.

Resources

Kayak Touring

Generally people paddle in Croatia in guided groups, but independent paddling is possible if you have your own kayak (perhaps a Feathercraft) or can convince an outfitter that you are skilled enough to rent a kayak and proceed on your own. Be gentle, as that is not normal in their business and the Adriatic sea conditions can be rough. To arrange a kayak and side trips sailing, biking or river kayaking, contact

Zeljko Kelemen, Huck Finn Adventure Travel at www.huck-finn.hr or zeljko@huck-finn.hr

River Kayaking
There’s no other way to see the dense forests along the rivers than going on a guided river trip, to say nothing about managing logistics in remote mountain regions. We rolled our eyes at the thought of running rivers and waterfalls in double sit-on-top kayaks without seat backs or thigh straps (wash-deck is too nice a term), but were delighted at what the doubles could do. Too, we never imagined taking novices over 3-foot to 6-foot tall waterfalls in these boats. Yikes, that would probably never happen at home, but, we do admit, it worked surprisingly well! Rafts and a couple of traditional river kayaks were sometimes available, depending on the river. Our favorite rivers were the Mreznica, Zermanja and Dobra. Don’t miss the first two.

Hiking
On each of the islands (and certainly on the mainland) is more hiking and exploring than one could do in several weeks. We found many paths (some quite ancient) through agricultural areas, past ancient ruins of churches, forts, dwellings, wells, caves and more. There seemed to be no restrictions for walking, except in mountainous mainland areas still littered with land mines from the mid-1990’s war.

The rest of our Croatia Visit
We spent a couple of days visiting Plitvice Lakes National Park and UNESCO World Heritage Site (do not miss it!), and several weeks exploring rivers, mountains, small communities and farms. We biked back roads through vineyards and along coastal headlands, snorkeled (not a tropical paradise, but certainly fascinating). We spent a few days in Pula, Istria, in the north of the country, exploring a major coloseum and other ruins. Yes, we wandered the cities and museums of Zadar, Dubrovnik and Zagreb. We really kept moving to enjoy this small country in six weeks!

Natural History
We found endangered orchids, flowers we still have not identified in botanical guides, and several glass snakes, properly the Legless European Lizard, Pseudopus apodus. Add some cool birds like Red-backed Shrikes, White Wagtails, Hooded Brows, Great Spotted Woodpeckers and many more.

Lodging
There are a few European style, family-run car campgrounds, well-listed on web sites, but camping outside of these is unlawful. Fortunately, everywhere we paddled were small towns of perhaps 100 people, each with several families earning additional income by running what we call B&B’s. Without reservations, it was a quick task to ask around and book one of these near wherever we beached our kayak. The high season of July and August might pose problems without reservations.

Transportation
Bus and van transportation was very inexpensive, comfortable and reliable, but you must get advice on finding the route and schedule you want. We found no reason to rent a vehicle, although that is certainly possible.

Language
Croatian is a very odd one to begin to learn, especially if you have never spoken an Eastern European language, as many sounds are strange to us. Many locals, but not most, spoke enough English for us to get by. Our Lonely Planet book offered a helpful start and we got better over the weeks.

The Local Folks
Wonderfully warm without exception! Fair, peaceful, respectful gentle and helpful … the kind of folks you treat with honor and want to compensate fairly for their assistance.

Photo Resources
Our gallery – see Croatia section of http://ExplorerDJ.smugmug.com

Flip through the many images on the Huck Finn site to discover what most interests you about Croatia.

Paddle California 2014

by Barbara Kossy

Editor’s note: Barbara Kossy is an artist and environmental activist. She lives in Moss Beach, California with her husband John Dixon, Tsunami Ranger and surfski paddler. She is a former president of Bay Area Sea Kayakers and has been organizing kayaking trips in Italy since 1996. See www.barbarakossy.com for current trips.

Thanks to Barbara Kossy, Gerard Ungerman, Charlotte Hendricks, and the Sacramento River Preservation Trust for the photos!

Paddling the Sacramento River - the group photo — Paddling the Sacramento River – the group photo

We paddled 100 miles in four days on the Sacramento River. The trip was more about time than distance.

I’ve been paddling for over 20 years and I knew I could paddle the whole thing. But I figured the best way to be sure I saw John Dixon, my surfski racing husband, over the course of the trip would be to paddle a double with him. We chose the stalwart ocean-worthy open deck Tsunami X-2 Starship.

Barbara and John paddle the staunch old X-2

Why this trip? We had some vacation requirements:

Not far, no planes. (We live just south of San Francisco.)
Fewer than seven days
Active
Nature
Warm
Something that fit both my competent and his elite skill set
Did not require buying lots of stuff

We drove up with our friend Charlotte Hendricks, kayaks car-topped, and spent the night in Redding. After a greeting, a talk, and sandwich packing, the three of us and about another 14 people launched near the Sundial Bridge, a swoosh of Calatrava that hops over the river to Turtle Bay Park in Redding.

Time:

In four days of downriver paddling I had plenty of time to think about time and rivers. The river hints at the scale of geologic time. As it cuts through the earth and carries us down, the river exposes more. Some say, and I agree, that we’re in the Anthropocene, the epoch that began when human activities started to dominate global ecosystems. There was plenty of time to view bald eagles, surf motorboat wakes, assess waterfront homes, and try to spot big fish underwater.

Epiphanies:

If you want your rudder to work you need to paddle faster than the river.
Bald eagles are big and look kinda badass.
River otters and turtles have something in common. Mostly all you see is the splash.
When you paddle a kayak on fresh water you may not need a shower, and you don’t need to rinse your gear.
Take care of your skin.

What you get:

A satisfying paddle vacation.
Fresh water and lots of it.
Some guided spiritual moments on/in nature’s realm.
No cooking. All meals plus ample snacks provided.
No tedious kayak packing. Your stuff is schlepped by the staff and their trucks!
Friendly helpful guides.
Great conversation and friends on the water and around the campfire.

Back to the trip:

It’s so kinetic – bouncing down a wave train. Seeing the white water boiling cold splashes into the hot air and onto my hot skin. It’s a downhill ride. I can’t claim to know all that much about river running. I’ve rafted. But I was the one who just pulled hard and followed captain’s orders.

We paddle. There were eddies here, boils of water there, white water flumes, gravel bars shallow, and deeper water with salmon swimming to an upstream spawning and decomposing end, while we run downstream to our own end, some composing (this article?) and hors d’oeuvres.

Gotta have food - yummmm... — Gotta have food – yummmm…

Between celery sticks and hummus I chatted with Gerard Ungerman of Respectful Revolution. He is a French videographer documentarian humanitarian revolutionary. And this fellow has had his share of life roaming the asphalt rivers of the USA on his Harley, looking for the inspiring story. “Do we need inspiration and a connection with the greater powers to save our own asses?”

While paddling we talked with Sacramento canoeist and guide Tom Biglione about writing. To honor the gravity powered journey I write:

The cool water under the October sun heated air
The flow, we go floating on water
Pulling the paddles.
A hot blue sky
Cold green water
Trees dotted with vultures arranged as black ornaments.
The eagle flies up river as we fly down.

an unspoilt riverside view — A peaceful riverside view

Tom pulled out his stage voice and sang some tunes from “Paint Your Wagon.” Russ Clark, a canoe guide from Oregon, belted a song from “Oklahoma.” John and I paddled in time. Charlotte sang and I hummed as I can’t carry a tune. I closely watch the banks for fuzzy river otter pups. I’m hoping for my own cute animal show. John’s comment is, “Lean right!” as we eddy out.

Later, we’re floating. I’m paddling. I wiggle.
He says, “Don’t do that.”
“Huh?”
“I’m standing up.”
And I turn around slowly – full rotation – and see he’s standing upright in our kayak.

In camp Haven says, “Hey, you two should do the Cal100!”

I guffaw.

No. I hate suffering. I hate pain. And I don’t train.

The Cal100 http://www.riversforchange.org/california-100/ uses the same course. Paddlers slam through the 100 miles in one day. It may be just the thing – for you.

The river changes constantly. Sometimes gradually, sometimes suddenly. The river flows with gravity. It runs down to the sea, and always runs down. If you wait it still runs down to the sea. You cannot go up. Well, unless you have an engine.

Eriogonum roseum - wand buckwheat — Eriogonum roseum – wand buckwheat

The motor boats:

It’s not wilderness. There were motorized fishing boats. They could power upstream through shallows. If they went fast enough they planed and left very little wake. When one came downstream we could surf the wake if it was slower than planing speed. The Sacramento is not the Mississippi, but going back up for us human powered craft would be difficult in places and impossible in others.

The fish:

I was wearing polarized sun glasses and could see through the water’s surface glare, deep into the channel. Over the center flow I could see big fish swimming upstream. They must have been salmon or trout, but it was hard to tell since the glimpses were brief and the water murky. We were going downstream and the fish were going up. That can’t be easy. One day someone yanked a big fish from the water, hand caught. It was a big salmon, half alive, half dead, mission accomplished. In shallow side pools we saw frogs, and tadpoles (bullfrogs?) and little fingerlings zipping around under the aquatic plants. I wonder what it would be like to snorkel down river for a day.

Lucas and his big fish — Lucas and the big fish

Here’s a list of the plants and animals one might encounter:

http://www.fws.gov/pacific/planning/main/docs/CA/sacriver/Final%20CCP/Appendix%20G.pdf

The message:

Lucas would talk to us about the river: its history, its geology and the way it’s the hinge of a huge and important watershed. We were all thankful to be there.

You won't be doing this during the Cal100 — You won’t be doing this during the Cal100

The food:

It was good. There was lots of it and it was way better than I could ever drum up after a full day of paddling. And there was beer and wine and brownies and fruit and salads and S’mores. One night we sat around the campfire and Ethan performed a sort of S’mores performance piece, gliding from warming toasting marshmallows to bits of oozing chocolate, all done just so as he delicately assembled the morsels and delivered them to us one by one. This was culinary art. Thank you thank you Haven and Ethan and all the camp and kitchen crew.

Or this - camping under the river oaks — Or this – camping under the river oaks

The camping:

We had to set up our own tents. That’s it. Given that our safari was serviced by trucks, and there were lots of us, we used campgrounds near roads. When compromise includes hot showers, I’m IN.

Your river trip will be different from mine. Maybe you’ll get into the lava formations along the Lassen stretch of the river. Maybe you’ll photograph all the native plants, or work on your paddle stroke. Or learn about geology, or the native people who lived there. If you’re reading this blog, I have the feeling you would love this river trip. And say, if you don’t have a kayak or canoe you can rent one.

Notes:

This trip happened October 2 – 5, 2014

Catered paddling trip put on by Paddle California

The California Paddlesports Council is the same organization that produces the Golden Gate Sea Kayak Symposium.

Sea Kayaking Microwave – Surfin’ Tsunami Style

By Steve King and Scott Becklund

Editor’s note: The Tsunami Rangers refer to the wave at Mushroom Rock as Microwave for two reasons: it’s a mini-version of Maverick’s and there’s a naval station with radio and radar on the bluff above the break. Thanks to TR Michael Powers for all the great photos!

Steve: About a week before the epic Maverick’s Big Wave surf contest, my friend and fellow Tsunami Ranger Scott Becklund sent me a text suggesting a surfing session at Microwave or Mushroom Rock, a sweet surfing spot where the Rangers and many other kayakers have played and surfed for decades. I was game, the big wave was forecast to come rolling in for a Friday contest, and so to avoid the hubbub we selected Sunday for our session.

I spent part of Saturday with about a hundred spectators watching roughly 15 intrepid surfers paddle out to Maverick’s via the slot at the end of the beach. We all got to see black silhouettes charging down some very large waves, this time no prize money, no rescue jet skis, just very brave big wave surfers out to enjoy Maverick’s! I knew we were heading out the next morning early (not to Maverick’s itself but inside the reef where there were still some big fun looking waves).

You can see the naval station from which Microwave got its name in the background.

Scott: Driving down to see King ” El Rey” I drove through the Presidio and along Ocean Beach. Seeing the Pacific at first light I realized choosing today for a surf play day was either very lucky or well thought out. I was driving down anyhow to hang with King and meet Padre Jack (the Tsunami Rangers’ official chaplain) to buy a Tsunami X-15 for my son. Arriving at King’s I learned that Michael “Don Miguel” Powers was meeting us for our paddle. There is something very special about both King and Michael for such different reasons. Now I really knew this was going to be fun!

It’s funny how many of my colleagues and casual friends know me as a kayaker yet have little knowledge of the time I spend with the ocean. As we prepared to launch I thought about how many times I had told people I was kayak surfing: no, not board surfing. And surfing at Pillar Point: no, not Maverick’s. I guess if you haven’t done it you just don’t understand. But as we paddled away from the beach that morning I forgot all this as I tuned in to what a beautiful a day it really was.

Steve: We got there Sunday morning and met Don Miguel, aka Wild in Spirit Powers, the elder Tsunami Ranger in his Tsunami X-15. He was a bit beat up from a fall he took on a 10-mile hike in the Santa Cruz mountains a few days previously but as usual his spirit and great health prevailed and he was raring to go!

When we got out to Mushroom Rock there was a paddle board and surf ski duo working the waves. As soon as we got close to Mushroom Rock, Scott slipped in to a building wave with a few paddle strokes and glided down the wave like a dolphin playing in surf. I think he was channeling Don Diego, our beloved Eric Soares, as he dropped into that wave with such ease and precision. A nice long ride was his reward. I tried to find the grooveline but found myself paddling hard with no go or flow. Then I caught one with Scott next to me but again he snabbed the sweet spot and I found myself riding the top of the wave, bracing to stay there with spray jamming up my nose. I ended up taking a long ride on top and then got dumped.

Scott: I hadn’t surfed here since Eric’s memorial in 2012. As we paddled up to the break at Mushroom Rock we joined a wave surfer and an SUP paddler both who greeted us with smiles. Man, this just keeps getting better! I thought. The NOAA forecast was for 5-7′ seas at 17 seconds. That looked accurate. The waves reflected early morning light off their glassy faces. I saw what I thought would be THE takeoff about 25-30 yards past the other two surfers and paddled straight to it without waiting for King and Michael to catch up. I’d been nearly creamed at this spot before so I kept a weather eye out for trouble. Just as I got there a nice wave approached and I took it. Okay, now this is too good! I thought. Off on one of the best rides in years on the first set!

Steve: I lined up for another wave as Scott continued to tune in ride after ride, smooth as silk. I was positioned a bit too far forward and found myself doing endos in my X-15. I released my seat belt as I was going through the washing machine and lost my boat for a few moments. It was a very big set and my antics provided great entertainment for my fellow surfers. For that I was grateful; it would be sad if it were all for naught! I got creamed by another set and bounced up (wave roll by Neptune) and found myself sitting in my boat, no paddle, on top of a wave like a bucking bronco. I got dumped again and was held down longer then I recall ever being held down in the past. It made me think about the courageous Maverick’s surfers and what a real big wave hold down must be like!

After my last mash-up I finally got in the zone and starting picking up rides, long and smooth. One ride was a tandem as I looked over to see Scott flying at about the same rate as me down the wave. By that time it had developed into a glorious Sunday morning surf session. Truly the core of what makes ocean wave riding so exhilarating.

TR Steve King searaches for the grooveline. — TR Steve King searches for the sweet spot.

Scott: It felt like we had the place to ourselves. We nearly did. As I paddled back from my ride King paddled up to me and we caught (or tried to catch) some nice waves. I seemed to be in the better spot and was catching a few more than El Rey when he snaked me! On the next big juicy perfect set I jumped on the wave thinking King would pull off yet there he was! No where to go but into his lap or straight down the face. I cranked as hard as I could and was barely able to pull off over the top. As I paddled around I caught myself both laughing and muttering under my breath, “Any one but King…” All this time Michael sat underneath in his kayak trying to capture that elusive pic.

Catch a wave and you're sittin' on top of the world... — Catch a wave and you’re sittin’ on top of the world…

Steve: It was so good I forgot about getting hammered. Then I found myself looking at the biggest wave of the day and I was not in the right spot. I had paddled up over the top of a few of these big guys and dropped ka-blam! on the backside but I could not get over the top or out of the way of this one. I did my best to ride the beast but it dropped hard and fierce on my head. It also creamed everybody else out there, I believe. When I surfaced I saw Don Miguel in the water, hanging on to his boat, laughing. He had had to bail to avoid being torpedoed by my boat. Scott was also mashed by this big boy. That was one hard dropping wave!

I fought the wave and the wave won... — I fought the wave and the wave won…

Scott: Anyone who has paddled with Michael can never understand how he never gets creamed. He’ll be right in the kill zone and then just off to the side as all hell breaks loose. Today as I paddled back to the takeoff spot I passed him laughing at how much air he got as he barely crested a wave. I looked up and there was King, looking as if he had changed his mind about going for a monster. Imagine his boat in slow motion stalling on a big wave, seeming to stop then changing direction and launching straight over the falls backwards, cartwheeling over and over, picking up speed as he rolled. He barreled toward me where I sat thirty yards away, lost his boat and got held under. It seemed like at least a minute before I finally saw him surface and swim toward his boat and me. Holy s#*t! That was one of the best kayaking crashes I’ve seen that didn’t involve a broken boat or… Minutes later a smiling King reconnected with his boat. I went yelling and laughing back for more. The three Rangers shared a few more rides and couple more crashes and lots of laughs with the other paddlers before we called it a session and paddled back for a hot tub soak. Magical.

Steve: We took a few more rides and then headed back toward the beach. Scott, Don Miguel and I rode one last wave three abreast heading to shore. Bliss on a Sunday morning surfing session! Thank you to the Great Spirit for the ocean, waves, and sun and to Jim Kakuk the designer and creator of these exquisite Tsunami X-15 ocean kayaks!

Sea Kayaking Na Pali Redux – Rolling With the Tao

“A good traveler has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving.”
-Lao Tzu, “Tao Te Ching”

My experience on the Na Pali expedition was an exercise in how to roll when things don’t go as planned.

I had misgivings as soon as I arrived on Kauai and discovered 26 people signed up for the trip. Mark and Sasha did a great job as organizers but I had anticipated 16 paddlers tops which still seemed like way too many because I’m used to small maneuverable Tsunami-style groups. For me, things already weren’t going as planned.

We camped at Ha’ena Beach. All night wind and rain pounded our tents and the surf pounded the shore. Next day conditions were great for surfing and kite boarding but not so good for a trip down Na Pali in fully laden scuppers with 26 paddlers of vastly different levels of experience. Big swells, unusually rough conditions for June that only happen every five years or so, were predicted for several days. We’d have to wait to launch. Things continued not to go as planned.

Camping at the lo'i — Camping at the lo’i

After Ha’ena we needed a different place to stay for another three nights. The weather pinned us down that long. Fortunately, Mark had a friend on the island. Presley Wann manages a State-owned lo’i, the site of an ancient Hawaiian community. The locals have formed a committee (www.facebook.com/HMoMakana) to restore the lo’i to its traditional purpose – taro farming. They’re slowly clearing the land all the way to the sea and rebuilding the ancient walls exactly as they were originally laid out. We moved our gear to the new campsite and settled in to wait. This was not what any of us had planned.

Ancient walls waiting to be restored to their original function

We kept busy. I found myself looking at the taro patches. The taro enchanted me. The crickets sang, the wind sighed through the palms, and the taro leaves danced. The lo’i was like a little Eden. The cliff below which the lo’i lay was called “Makana” which means “gift” in Hawaiian. Here the ‘aina, “the land that feeds”, gave me a gift.

To see a world in a grain of sand,
And a heaven in a wild flower,
Hold infinity in the palm of your hand,
And eternity in an hour.
-William Blake, “Auguries of Innocence”

One evening, I was watching the taro turn gold in the sunlight. A heart-shaped leaf dipped in the wind. Its pointed tip just touched the surface of the surrounding water, creating concentric wavelets that multiplied and spread, shining in the light. It was one of those crystal moments when the universe slides into place and you feel like you could never be disappointed or unhappy again. Time stopped and a sense of great clarity descended. Suddenly everything I thought I needed to do was irrelevant and I lost all desire to paddle this trip.

It may look mundane, but this taro is magical!

In years past I’ve hiked the Kalalau trail three times, kayaked down the entire Na Pali coast and once I even swam down to the first pocket beach with Eric and his brother John when Eric and I were on our honeymoon. When I saw the faded green Kayak Kauai building again I found myself choking up. Thinking about how Micco, the owner, had guided Eric and me down Na Pali was emotional. Taking this trip with a lot of strangers (of 26 people I only knew five) was not what I needed just then.

Taro farming at Limahuli Botanical Garden

The Hawaiians believe that taro is sentient. I do too because it told me very clearly to Go Home. At that crystal moment the trip was over for me. I’ve been running around ever since Eric died but suddenly the restless agitation vanished. I knew that just like the taro I have a place where I can grow and dance and put down roots and benefit my community. That place is home.

Maya before she caught "the bug" — Maya before she caught “the bug”

Meanwhile, Tsunami Ranger daughter Maya King got sick. She couldn’t paddle so Melinda her mom planned to stay behind with her. Although I was sorry for Maya, this was an opening for me. I asked Melinda if it was okay for me to hang with them. She said yes, so I told Mark and Sasha I was going to stay behind too. Not what any of us had planned but it was all good.

There are so many gifts
Still unopened from your birthday.
There are so many hand-crafted presents
That have been sent to you by God.
-Hafiz

Our companions eventually launched and made their way down the coast while Melinda, Maya, and I dragged our smelly wet selves and our gear to a hotel and began to repair the damage of five days and four nights of rain, wind, salt water and mosquitos. At Presley’s advice, the next day I drove up to Kalalau lookout.

Looking down at Kalalau Valley from 5,148' — Looking down at Kalalau Valley from 5,148′

Rolling along in a rented SUV, listening to reggae on Island Radio and eating musubi, for the first time on the trip I felt solid. When I got to the top of the mountain I looked down on Kalalau Valley where our group was camping. I had no regrets. Then I plunged into the the Alakai swamp, one of the wettest spots on earth, for a big hike.

That night Presley invited us to his house for a barbecue. Some cousins were in town from Oahu and the family was getting together. Colleen, Presley’s wife, made a delicious chicken curry. We had great conversations and met a grandson, two daughters, a fiancée plus cousins and uncles. Aloha prevailed. Not what we had planned but it was wonderful.

Presley gives us the lowdown on the lo'i — Presley gives us the lowdown on the lo’i

It’s hard to believe I ended up kayaking only one day on this trip. That was certainly not the plan but I still think the trip turned out great. I had the privilege of staying at the lo’i and spending time with people intimately connected to the land. I hung with Melinda and Maya, something I don’t often get to do. I hiked in the swamp, and did some productive thinking there. I went to Presley’s house for dinner and enjoyed Hawaiian ohana. And I had an epiphany triggered by taro. What’s not to like? I am reminded of something sea kayaker Justine Curgenven wrote about her aborted attempt to paddle around Isla Grande, Tierra Del Fuego: “Being stranded on land so much meant that we met and spent time with many wonderful people and were shown great kindness.” (Sea Kayaker Magazine, Dec. 2011.) There’s something to be said for Plan B.

Tom and Annie Hashimoto, caretakers of the lo'i — Tom and Annie Hashimoto, caretakers of the lo’i

I could have been disappointed when things didn’t turn out the way I planned. Instead, I let the little nudges from the universe guide me so while everyone else paddled Na Pali I had my own unique experience and it was amazing. So next time you get pinned down by weather or something frustrates your efforts to do what you think you ought to be doing don’t fret. Maybe your path is already laid at your feet. Maybe another adventure is right there waiting. Look for the signs. Roll with the Tao. There are so many gifts still unopened from your birthday…

Many thanks to Mark and Sasha and Melinda and Maya for understanding and rolling with me.

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