by Tsunami Ranger John Lull
Kayak navigation is the art of knowing (and keeping track of) where you are and following the best route to get where you want to go. The best route may or may not involve paddling on a straight course from point A to B. Sometimes when making a crossing in wind or current it’s more efficient (safer and wiser) to “put some money in the bank” by setting a course on an angle up-wind or up-current so you can eventually drift down to your destination. Obviously when meandering through ocean rock gardens you won’t be paddling in a straight line. But you will be making constant choices regarding which route to take, depending on wave/surge action, location of rocks and breaking waves, and the areas you want to explore. The best strategy is to use the water dynamics to your advantage whenever possible, while avoiding danger zones.
It helps a lot to know your paddling speed. This will give you a good idea of distance paddled over a given period of time. To determine paddling speed, time yourself while paddling at a comfortable cruising speed over a known distance (more on this in Part 2).
In this article, I’ll discuss a few key techniques of navigation without any special tools, aside from a map or nautical chart. Navigating in a kayak necessarily has to be kept simple. Mostly you’ll navigate using visual landmarks for reference. This is known as “piloting.” Where no landmarks are visible, or on open water in dense fog, you’ll be “dead reckoning” and you’ll at least need a compass. Compass use and dead reckoning will be covered in Part 2.
Line of Sight: Navigation by Inspection
The most basic navigation technique is to simply follow a shoreline or paddle by line of sight to a destination you can see (an island, point of land, beach, etc.). You can also link up a series of landmarks along the way to a given destination, keeping track of where you are by noting each feature as you pass it. Look for prominent bluffs, headlands, points, coves, beaches, or seastacks that are easy to identify. If the trip is of any length, a nautical chart or map will be very useful, especially if you are paddling in unknown waters. You can locate the features you see on your chart and use it to track your progress. The key is to keep track of where you are as you go. Don’t wait until you’ve passed so many coves and beaches that you can’t identify the one you’re looking at. A chart can also be used to plan your trip and look for interesting areas to paddle.
When making a crossing in open water to a destination you can see, if conditions are mild, visibility is good, and there is little or no wind or current (check a tide book) to push you off course, you can simply paddle across to your destination. That’s a lot of “ifs,” but nature sometimes cooperates. When you can’t see your destination, due to dense fog or a long stretch of open water, you’ll need to use a compass to navigate (I’ll cover that in Part 2). When crossing a relatively strong current or wind, you’ll be pushed off course, so you need to set a “ferry angle” into the wind or current. If visibility is poor or there are no landmarks, you’ll have to calculate this angle and alter the heading (the direction your kayak is pointing) accordingly, using a compass. However, if there are any stationary landmarks (rocks, buoys, islands) visible ahead, you can use a very powerful navigation technique – a range, using only your two eyes.
Ranges
The single most powerful and accurate line of sight navigation technique for a sea kayaker is the use of ranges. A range is taken by lining up two stationary objects, one nearer than the other. Since two points define a straight line, you will be located precisely on the “line of position” defined by the range. Using a front range, for example a rock or buoy aligned with a distant headland, and holding those two objects in line as you paddle forward, you’ll stay on course until you reach the closer object. This works even when crossing a current or side-wind, in which case you’ll end up on a ferry angle into the wind or current. All you have to do is hold the range visually, even though your boat will point off to one side to compensate for the drift.
A side range can be used to monitor your progress. If you can find a range to one side, watch the more distant object (the background). The rule is the background will appear to move in the same direction you are moving, relative to the closer object. So if you are paddling into a strong current or headwind, you look off to the side at a buoy, and the buoy appears stationary against the distant shoreline, you are not moving forward. You’re on a “treadmill” going nowhere, so you’ll need to change course or paddle harder until you see the background appearing to move forward. It’s nice to see that movement and know you’re getting somewhere when paddling into a strong wind, and even more important to know if you’re not moving!
By using ranges you can maintain a straight course forward, as well as monitor your direction of movement. Whenever possible, watch for ranges, both to the front and to the side. You can even check a range behind you if there’s no other option, although it’s obviously more difficult to keep looking over your shoulder. You can also identify useful ranges on a chart and draw in the lines of position to use on the water.
Fog and Reduced Visibility
Piloting, the navigational technique discussed here so far, is dependent on visual references. In very dense fog you won’t be able to rely on what you see for the simple reason you can’t see anything! In the extreme case where you have no visibility, you’ll need a compass or GPS device (to be discussed in Part 2). However, if you stay close enough to shore, you may be able to pick out key landmarks, such as major headlands, as they emerge out of the mist. This works best in areas that you know well, but if you pay close attention you may be able to keep track of your position with the aid of a chart, when paddling less familiar waters.
The above is only an overview. Please feel free to comment, ask questions, and keep the discussion going on kayak navigation by piloting.
Thanks for another great post, John! Although I’ve heard of ranges, I’ve never used them – I’ll be experimenting with that in the future.You mentioned identifying key features such as sea stacks. I have also learned it’s good to turn around and look behind you, identifying same. The reason is things look very different on the return journey (assuming you’re travelling out and back and not in a loop or having someone pick you up) and it’s easy to get lost.
Also, in fog if you’re near the surf zone you can tell what’s going on by the wave action. I remember one of Eric’s rock garden classes at the Marine Reserve. It was a sunny day and then the fog rolled in. We had to figure out how to get back to the beach. Eric had one of the students lead. I remember how even in the fog you could see the backs of the waves as they began to rise prior to breaking on the reef. Rather than going straight in to the beach, you had to paddle north, then hook right and paddle back south through the opening. The leader misjudged how far out of the way we had to paddle and nearly went on to the reef, but Eric called him back. In this case the leader’s direction was technically correct; he was paddling directly toward the beach in the shortest line, but the waves told the real story.
A good simple explanation John.
I agree Nancy, it is good to know what the way back looks like, even if planing to do a loop or be picked up, as sometimes plans need to be changed.
Often when I use ranges to navigate, I’ll be looking for a “new” close object as I’m closing in on the original close object, whether it be an exposed rock or small island, a navigational buoy, a mooring…even a lobster buoy (yes, they are small, but may get you to your next close object). I’ve even used boats, providing I can visually see a deployed anchor line.
You can get lazy and use a GPS which will set the correct course for a straight-line course, but everyone navigating a sea kayak should know how to proceed when the battery (or the GPS unit) dies. And it does keep you more aware of your surroundings as an added bonus.
An important subject, expertly covered in this article…I’ll be waiting for Part 2!
Tony M.
Another procedure I use when making a crossing using ranges once I have reached the near object, and there are no additional potential near objects to continue using ranges: take a compass reading maybe a couple hundred yards before reaaching the near object. This bearing will take into account any current or wind that is necessitating corrections you are making. Then just stay on that bearing. Alternately, without a compass, notice where the bow of your kayak is pointing as you approach the near object…hopefully there is a landmark there. Let’s say there is a landmark, 20 degrees to the right of your destination. As you proceed from the near point, however, you must imagine this landmark (20 degrees to the right of your destination) shifting to the left (toward your destination), so that when you are half-way between the near point (now behind you) and your destination, you should be aiming your bow 10 degrees to the right of your destination. When you are 75% of the way between the near point and your destination, the angle should now be 5 degrees. So what you are doing is changing where your bow is pointing. Just imagine that your landmark is moving to the left as you gain distance across the channel. The best scenario is if there are houses on the shore. You pick the appropriate house as a landmark when at the nearpoint, then as you proceed, shift the landmark leftwards (to a different house). When you think you are half way from the nearpoint to your destination, your landmark should now have shifted to a house halfway between the original (house) landmark and your destination. I hope I didn’t make this sound too complicated…I do much better with drawings! I’ve used this method many times and it works well.
Oops! I mis-spoke concerning the angle in my rant. I gave the example of an angle of 20 degrees…this angle will remain the same, not diminish as you approach your destination. Where your bow is pointed, though, will change as I have explained, pointing to a place half way between your original landmark and your destination when you are 50% of the way across from your near range point (behind you) and your destination. In fact, the reason that a compass bearing also works is that the angle of ferry remains the same.
Tony
Hey, excellent point Nancy about looking back toward your launch point. This can be really important for the return trip–which you may have to make even if you didn’t plan to, as Wayne points out! Nancy, you probably haven’t used ranges because most of your kayaking has been on the open coast in areas with little of no current. They are still useful there, but become essential when paddling where there’s significant current, such as on San Francisco Bay. Unless you’re really close to shore, it’s difficult to gauge how the current is effecting your course. Crossing a strong current will push you off course and, even worse, paddling into a strong current can stop you cold, and you won’t even realize it without some sort of range or landmark to indicate you aren’t making headway!
And good point about using the wave direction as a guide. You can also guage the steepness of the waves to judge when you’re getting close to shore. The waves will steepen as you enter shallower water. And listening for breaking surf is useful and important when paddling in fog.
Tony, yes it’s important to pick up new ranges when the one you’ve been using is no longer useful. Also, as you say you can use a compass course once the range has ‘shown’ you what your heading should be. I’ll be covering compass use in part 2.
These blog articles are necessarily short and concise, without too much detail, so keep the comments or any questions coming if you want more details.
Great topic! Pictures really illustrated points. Looking forward to Part Two!