“To find the Baja of myth and legend, one must do what adventurers have always done—travel light and fast and beyond the creature comforts of so called eco-tourism.” Kenny Howell, veteran Sea of Cortez kayak explorer and guide

Over two decades ago I made the kayaker’s pilgrimage to the Baja peninsula in northwestern Mexico to experience first hand the Desert Sea of California Sur. It was winter and chilly at night, but the beautiful azure water was cool, not cold. My friend Jim Kakuk and I spent two weeks with our girlfriends walking and camping on the beautiful beaches of Danzante and Monserrate, diving for our supper, island-hopping in our kayaks, and simply enjoying spectacular views of the Sierra Gigante to the west, conical volcanic islands, and golden sunsets across blue seas. It was heaven on earth. I didn’t want to leave and couldn’t wait to return.

I hitched a ride home with fellow kayakers and all was groovy until we were stopped by the police a few miles south of Ensenada. The senior policeman scratched his head and said, “Uh, you get ticket for uh, having kayaks on top of car.” That meant our vehicle would be impounded, and we’d have to hang around a few more days, at best. Our driver protested but finally we convinced the officer to “take care of it” by giving him a bribe of $50. The incident was just one of those things that often happens in semi-lawless Baja, and was part of the experience. I laughed it off.
A few years later, Jim Kakuk and I went to Baja again for three weeks with Misha Dynnikov. On this trip, we were stopped five times by the Federales (young soldiers with big machine guns waving in all directions). It was a disconcerting nuisance, but we still had a wonderful time once we left shore. Again, I fell in love with Baja. There were fewer fish, but other than that, it was just the same—same sea, same sky, same sunsets.
I’ve been hankering to visit Baja again, but over the past few years, banditos have really bothered visiting kayakers. Jim Kakuk went back a few years ago and the transport vehicle was broken into and ransacked. Another friend of mine (not a kayaker) was robbed and shot (he lived) while buying pottery. Neither of these events was newsworthy, but highlights the risks associated with a trip to Mexico.
Lately I’ve read the daily news about shootouts on the streets, drug gangsters decapitating and blowing up each other and the police, and two dozen tourists who were killed and dumped in a ditch. True, most of the violence is by Mexicans toward Mexicans. But American gringos with kayaks really stand out. I’ve decided the risk outweighs the reward. I won’t be going back anytime soon, but I yearn for Baja. It’s in my soul and will never go away.

My good friend Kenny Howell disagrees with my pessimistic assessment. He admits that northern Baja (especially around Ensenada and Tijuana) can be really bad for tourists, and should be avoided. He says the southern tip of Baja around Cabo San Lucas is also problematic. But he insists that the Sea of Cortez from Muleje through Loreto and down to La Paz is still worth visiting today. A look at the map shows where these three kayaking put-ins are located.
One of Kenny’s favorite places is Espiritu Santo island, off La Paz. In fact, Kenny plans to go back to Espiritu Santo as soon as possible. Right, Kenny?

From what I remember, the best times to visit Baja range from November to March, since it is not too hot, as it is in summer. So now really is the time to go. If you are willing to take some risk for a trip into a wild world, hook up with your adventurous (and competent) amigos, or better yet, seek an old hand who knows the ropes. Before you go, contact Kenny. He may guide for you, and if he can’t, he’ll give you good advice and help you plan your trip. Kenny can be contacted at kenny@calkayak.com. Or go to the California Canoe and Kayak website at www.calkayak.com to find out more about upcoming trips to Espiritu Santo.
As Kenny says: “Baja can be many different things to different people, but I know what it is for me; a kayak, desert island, a few adventurous and skilled friends—or maybe just your lover, a spear gun, and the rest is gravy. You never know what you are going to see, but you can count on amazing things happening out there. Baja is still good for you, and good for the soul.”

I would love to hear any stories you readers may have about your sojourns to the Sea of Cortez. Please tell of your experiences with coyotes, frigate birds, moray eels, big winds, capsizes, banditos, the search for drinking water and firewood, the awe of being in cosmic bliss….
Vaya con Dios!
I’ve done 2 trips to Baja, both guided. Blog posts I have on these trips are listed below. In particular, I loved the animals/nature aspects.
One thing to consider – it likely would be safer (and much more convenient) to fly down to Loreto or La Paz and rent boats. There are a few outfitters with decent boats (and even more with not so decent boats).
http://peter-singlespeed.blogspot.com/2007/03/sea-of-cortez-kayak-trip.html
http://peter-singlespeed.blogspot.com/2007/03/interesting-things-from-baja.html
http://peter-singlespeed.blogspot.com/2009/01/baja-kayak-trip.html
http://peter-singlespeed.blogspot.com/2009/01/animals-from-baja.html
Good idea about flying in Peter. Thanks!
Oh yes, thanks Peter, for the really good travelblogs you did of Baja. Great animal shots especially. As I read your blogs, memories of Puerto Escondido and Del Carmen came flooding back.
Eric, I haven’t been to Baja, but it has always called to me.
Like you, I’m concerned about my safety with the current level of violence in Mexico. Hopefully the situation will improve and I’ll finally get down there.
Thanks for sharing your experience and the beautiful pics.
John, I’d love to show you Baja. Your level of kayaking skill would be fine for the Sea of Cortez, and you are a good camper. We could practice rescue techniques before we go, as capsizing there can really suck if you are miles from shore in a windstorm.
I agree with what Peter (above) said, that is, to fly to La Paz or Loreto. That way, you avoid banditos, police, and Federales. Then you can hook up with a guide service and either go with them or rent boats. The good news is there are many good kayakers who specialize in touring Baja.
Maybe we could do it next November. Interested?
Hmmm. It does sound like quite an adventure!
What are the water and air temps like in November?
John,
Both times I went to Baja was December 9th to Jan. 5th or so. Both times the water temp was approx 65F & the daytime air temp was around 65-70F. Very pleasant. At night, it would plunge down to 35 or so, as it is a desert. If the north wind came in, which it did for 2-3 days at a time on 2 occasions, the wind blew at a steady 20knots, with higher gusts (only competent kayakers such as myself should boat in high winds). The wind chill brought the comfort level down temp-wise. it did not rain while I was there, although others have told me of the occasional deluge.
I have heard that early to midNovember is 70F water and 75F temp or a bit warmer, which is ideal. And there are fewer winds. Perhaps Kenny or one of our readers can verify or correct this rumor.
Eric,
November is the best time to go – before the New year yahoo’s come invading. Stay for at least one month to get into the relax mode. Great hiking in the canyons and fabulous day kayak trips. Also spend a week on a deserted island to really get to know Baja.
Sounds intriguing. Let’s discuss this in more detail over the coming months.
If you put together a trip that is open to others, let me know. Baja is on my short list, and November is my birthday month. I love camping, y hablo espagnol.
Michele,
I doubt I’ll be going to Baja in the next year, but when I go I usually go with Tsunami Ranger friends. I’m quirky in that I don’t often paddle with people I don’t know. I have this need to trust them completely in adverse situations.
Best wishes on a fun trip when you do go!